Iconic Village still does Italian proud -- 81 years later

If consistency is one of the most important factors in a restaurant's longevity, then it follows that the Village, in the Italian Village complex of restaurants, is as steadfast as they come. In a world where 59 percent of new restaurants fail within three years, it has to be gratifying to Al and Gina Capitanini, who now run the Italian Village restaurants, that they have honored the legacy left to them by their father Frank and grandfather, Alfredo Capitanini, when he opened the Village restaurant in 1927.

The Village, the restaurant venue up the stairs (Vivere is on the first floor, La Cantina is on the lower level), recreates the setting of a 19th century Italian village, complete with star-lit sky. This is a dining room that evokes the casual, festive aspect of what Italian cuisine is all about.

The Village menu holds a wealth of classic Italian dishes -- veal, chicken, pasta, seafood -- and offers few surprises, but that goes right back to the importance of consistency. I can tell you that the "classic" platter of spaghetti and meatballs I had a few weeks back was excellent in every way: Perfectly cooked pasta, fresh-tasting tomato sauce, well-made, flavorful meatballs ($15.95).

A couple of appetizers to recommend include baked clams oreganata and fried calamari. Six cherrystone clams got the full-blown baked treatment, which means a flavored (oregano, cheese) bread crumb topping that coddled the fresh clam meat underneath. Deliciously fresh in every way. The fried calamari was what it should be: The golden rings tender and light, yet with a subtle crispiness (not overdone with excess flour or semolina).

Pasta dishes that got raves from our group included a more-than-delicious fettuccine Afredo, and meat-filled ravioli. What made the "Alfredo" work were the light egg noodles (perfectly al dente), swaddled with a beautifully balanced Alfredo sauce (cream, butter, Parmesan). The tender pillows of meat-filled ravioli were dressed with a lively arrabbiata sauce, a combination that was more than fulfilling.

Scampi casalinga started with a layer of angel hair pasta. The pasta got propped up with sauteed shrimp and a wealth of mushrooms in a light sauce of shallots and sherry wine. Quite simple, yet quite good.

Echo that sentiment for the pollo alla Marsala, a delicious combination of sauteed plump chicken breast and mushrooms with a perfectly cooked-off Marsala wine sauce.

The "must try" dessert is the ricotta cheesecake, which was light in texture and not overly sweet.

Pat Bruno is a free-lance writer, critic and author.