Le Titi de Paris is quite an interesting study in both longevity and the shifting sands of time. I believe it was around 1984 or 1985 that I first ate at Le Titi de Paris. The restaurant was located on Rand Road in Palatine (it moved to its current location in 1987). Owners Pierre and Judith Pollin had set the bar high for classic French dining in the suburbs. This was a time when haute French was hot.
This past year Chef Pollin and his charming wife decided to call it quits. The baton was handed over to chef Michael Maddox and his wife, Susan. Maddox worked side-by-side with Pollin for something like 10 years, so he knows the workings of this restaurant right down to the fickle flames of the kitchen stoves.
Michael Maddox has tinkered with the direction of the menu somewhat, but not to the point that he has set an entirely different course. In fact, the menu changes are right for the times. Some offerings lean a bit into contemporary American, but not to such a degree that the name doesn't mesh with the menu. If you happen to get one of the waiters who is so French -- in attitude and accent -- you might still believe we have a bit of Paris on Dundee Road.
Ah, yes, but I doubt that any restaurant in Paris worth its sel would pour red wine into a white wine glass. Nor would a waiter wait so long to even ask if we would like to see the wine list. Nor would the restaurant serve butter that had quite obviously not been stored properly. Nor even worse, would it serve rather mediocre rolls.
That's the extent of my gripes. It's a smooth ride from here on in every respect: the dishes sampled, the range of interesting choices on the menu. Most important, the kitchen knows how to fulfill the flavor promise connected to each dish. There is enjoyment to be found here. And the prices, considering the pleasing atmosphere and high level of food quality, are quite reasonable.
An amuse bouche arrived -- a cold pear soup settled into a teacup with toasted slivered almonds afloat and a fine dice of sweet pear lurking at the bottom. It was just a sip or two, but very refreshing. Call it round one if you will.
This was followed by a feuillete of asparagus, a construction event in which lids of puff pastry "sandwiched" a glorious and flavorful arrangement of silky spinach, earthy shiitake mushrooms, and grilled pencil-thin spears of asparagus. More luster came in the form of "skins" of smoked tomatoes. That may sound like a busy appetizer, but on balance the dish was a harmony of flavors and textures.
Le Titi de Paris does good soups. Case in point was the asparagus veloute. Veloute implies a puree that is finished with cream. This was exactly that, but more important was that though there was a wealth of richness in this soup, the flavor of the asparagus was properly pronounced.
Quite impressive, too, was the "Mediterranean scented" tenderloin of pork. Two generous cuts of tender and delicious pork were complemented by braised red cabbage, dried fruits (raisins, cherries), and a "bourbon sauce." Priced at just $19, this was definitely the bargain dish on the menu.
Braised red cabbage was also an interesting aspect of the nut-crusted veal loin. A bevy of root vegetables (and a vegetable mousse) were on the plate along with spaetzle and a finely tuned sauce that the menu describes simply as a "Calvados essence." Terrific dish.
Seafood choices practically leap off the menu. Dover sole, salmon, sea scallops and sea bass. All of those preparations sounded wonderful, but it was the potato-and tarragon-crusted Alaskan halibut that had drama written all over it. How good was this dish? Remarkable is the word that comes to mind. Perfection on the plate, from the enjoyment of the fish itself (so beautifully fresh), to the fennel broth (a perfect adjunct to the fish), to the risotto of couscous (deftly spiced) and those cuttings of incredibly sweet tomatoes.
Desserts were no less enjoyable. For a lighter finish, the trio of sorbets would be the answer. Cassis, apricot and coconut were the choices one night. Light, too, but more interesting is the "citrus circus," a three-ring event featuring delicious citrus-accented creations -- lemon pot de creme, lemon sorbet and a lemon tart with a puff of meringue atop.
A mainstream dessert -- bittersweet chocolate cake with a knob of mango sorbet riding alongside -- was not as much fun as the dazzling high wire act presented by the citrus circus, but if you cannot go a day without chocolate, this cake should take the cake.
In the proper French fashion, mignardises, those mini-sweet treats, a gift from the kitchen, put the finis on dinner.
Pat Bruno is a free-lance writer, critic and author.
