When it comes to "meat markets" some are a cut above the rest, and Texas de Brazil, the latest churrascaria (Brazilian steakhouse) to open around these parts, appears to be on a mission to stomp the competition.

Texas de Brazil impressed me on several levels. The service was terrific, the wine list was of a caliber that you would expect to find only in fine-dining restaurants, most of the meats sampled bloomed with a richness of flavor, and the atmosphere, while casual, has a subdued elegance about it.

The all-you-can-eat dining experience revolves around a troop of carvers (gauchos) roaming the restaurant, offering choice cuts of beef, chicken, lamb, pork and sausage, presented on skewers.

How much all-you-can-eat can you possibly eat? And can you possibly eat enough to justify the price, which here is $47.99 per person (you can do the salad bar part only for $22.99). The price is not that far removed from the average cost of a meal in any decent restaurant these days. So now it all boils down to quality of food and a pleasing dining experience, and I say that Texas de Brazil comes through quite nicely on both counts.

The salad bar is so broad and so interesting, it made me want to stroll by it more than once. Winning choices included: the silky and properly sliced (almost paper-thin) prosciutto di Parma, the nutty sliced wedges of manchego cheese, the interesting assortment of salumi (cold cuts, mostly of the pork persuasion), the big stalks of steamed asparagus (I wish they had been grilled instead) and the luscious wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Also, the tabbouleh and grilled red peppers were excellent, and so was the nice assortment of olives and the smoked salmon. The grilled provolone was a loser; so was the pasta salad and the shrimp salad. There are usually two soups, but if the lobster bisque is around, that's the one to go for (quite impressive for a salad-bar soup). Over to one side of the big salad bar is a smaller bar where you can get into some sushi (mostly rolls the likes of California).

The meat choices are numerous. On my first go-around, I tried roasted leg of lamb (tender, succulent and with a mint jelly sauce to dab on if you choose), filet mignon (big chunks of tender meat, and you get a choice of temperature), filet mignon wrapped in bacon (go with the former, because wrapping this tender cut of meat in bacon is over the top), flank steak (juicy and flavorful) and pork ribs (reasonably enjoyable). Herb-marinated pork loin had a depth of flavor that made it a winner.

If you hate the idea of having too many meats at the same time and you want to focus on one of two, the one cut to go for is the "Brazilian picanha." This is a wonderfully delicious cut of beef (known as the "rump cover") that has a thick layer of fat, which adds to the flavor of the meat. As it goes with the picanha, and many of the cuts of beef here, there is a salty edge to the flavor (at the outset, the gaucho/waiter explains the salting or less salting process, so you get to choose a bit of that process, which is good), and this also sets Texas de Brazil apart from other churrascarias I have tried.

To add to the weight of your dining experience, and as if more food were needed, fluffy mashed potatoes (quite good, and replaced as needed) and fried bananas (not worth the calories) are included in the fixed price, desserts are not (but they are fairly priced).

Desserts range from carrot cake to pecan pie to chocolate mousse cake. One light idea would be the creme brulee (well, it's lighter than all the rest). A richer approach would be the "Brazilian cheesecake," a many layered affair that might be a bit too much to handle after all that comes before it. A more sensible approach, and one to split, would be the cool Key lime pie with a proper graham cracker crust.

Pat Bruno is a local free-lance critic and author. E-mail brunoeats@aol.com. Listen to Pat Bruno talk about food and wine Tuesdays at 6:23 p.m. and 10:23 p.m. and Saturdays and Sundays at 7:53 p.m. on WBBM News Radio 780-AM.