It all began some 30 years ago in what was unused below-street-level space on North State Street. I have often wondered if the entrepreneurs -- Arnie Morton and Klaus Fritsch, who started this whole deal -- could have imagined that one day their basement steakhouse would evolve into a major chain with some 80 locations worldwide.
I still have trouble thinking about Morton's as a chain. But it is a chain, make no mistake about it, and it sometimes happens that as a chain grows there is the possibility of a weak link here and there.
The latest Morton's to open (as far as I can tell) is in Naperville. You can't miss this free-standing brick building on Freedom Drive just off Diehl Road. Inside you will find that typical Morton's look: Handsome bar, wood and glass here and there, white tablecloths, a wall of wine bottles, booths, tables, private dining rooms and a fast-moving service staff that sells the sizzle with a show-and-tell of steaks and vegetables that has been a Morton's hallmark since the very beginning.
Then there is the tuxedoed spiffiness of the gregarious maitre d' whose name is George Mendonca. He booms with enthusiasm and energy, and that attitude carries over to the staff.
Not that the staff (or the kitchen) always gets it right, however. Little things that slip through the cracks at these prices (you can drop $100 a person here) can be vexing, though. For example, the rusty lettuce leaves in the Morton's salad I ordered, and the fact that those leaves were groaning under the weight of too much blue cheese dressing (good dressing, though).
And the bone-in double-cut prime rib (Friday and Saturday nights only) that arrived gray and unappetizing, almost well done instead of medium-rare (sent back and promptly replaced).
And the need to ask for extra plates for sharing some of the side dishes. And no drawn butter with the lobster tail. And an order of creamed spinach for two that came to the table as sauteed fresh spinach (but we ate it, anyway).
On the other hand, there were dishes tried that were wonderful eating in every way. For example, the "colossal shrimp Alexander." Those three jumbo shrimp, gently swathed in a beurre blanc sauce, and cooked to perfection, were pure magic.
The second go-around on the prime rib (medium-rare) was one of the best I've ever tasted. Tender, rich with good flavor, and such a hulk of beef it could easily have been shared (and it was).
Alaskan king crab legs were no less enjoyable (you can order a pound or a half, depending on your appetite and budget). This is one of the better deals here ($28.50 for the half). The two legs stretching far beyond the plate edge were steamed, cracked a bit in the kitchen, and served with drawn butter. Terrific crab, succulent, sweet, enjoyable to the last morsel.
One of the better deals, and one to seek out if it's still available, is called "Our Classic Combination." (It was on a separate menu card.) For $69, you get a choice of Morton's salad or Caesar salad, a single-cut filet mignon, an Australian lobster tail (somewhere in between a mini and jump tail) and asparagus. The filet was terrific: cooked perfectly medium-rare, good flavor, and it cut like butter. The asparagus was excellent, too -- chunky Redwood spears that couldn't have been better (firm yet tender). The broiled lobster tail was slightly overcooked, so it was a bit dry, but even with that the meat was sweet (a minute less under the broiler and it would have been perfect).
Two desserts were tried, and each was splendid. The carrot cake was one of the better ones I've eaten. From the luscious cream cheese frosting to the moist, perfectly spiced cake itself, the forks were flying until not one crumb was left on the plate.
Ditto that for the upside-down apple pie, which consists of a shaped mound of chunky-tender sliced apples with just the right amount of spices and subtle yet impressive flavor. A scoop of vanilla ice cream added the gilt to this lily.
Pat Bruno is a local free-lance critic and author. E-mail brunoeats@aol.com. Listen to Pat Bruno talk about food and wine Tuesdays at 6:23 p.m. and 10:23 p.m. and Saturdays and Sundays at 7:53 p.m. on WBBM News Radio 780-AM.
