Mexique finds Mexican, French connection ideal

Mexique bills itself as French-Mexican, and that was obvious from the start on a recent lunch visit.

"French onion and roasted poblanos soup, Gruyere cheese and croutons." This is how chef/owner Carlos Gaytan puts a Mexican spin on a classic French soup (his kitchen work includes the Union League Club, Adobo Grill and Bistrot Margot). Delicious. The onions had a rewarding depth of flavor coupled with a subtle sweetness; but, it was the mild lushness of the poblano and the light layer of melted cheese on the two croutons that made this an onion soup of extraordinary goodness.

Mejillones turned out to be the vaunted Prince Edward Island mussels. A fresh-as-a-daisy rubble of shells yawning wide showed off their muscles in a luscious white wine sauce with bits of dried chorizo. All of this was made even better with a tomato-saffron beurre blanc.

But all is not Mexican connected to French (or vice versa). Take the croque monsieur, for example. Almost as good as it gets, with thick chunks of egg-battered brioche stacked with folds of smoky ham and a melted layer of Gruyere. The only thing missing from this sandwich (to make it absolutely French) was a bechamel sauce. But the terrific pommes frites accompanying the sandwich made up for that.

The lunch menu here is really terrific. I wanted to try any number of the upscale taco selections -- flank steak, tilapia, salmon, lamb, chicken, steak sandwich -- but settled on the duck leg confit. Balanced textures and flavors all through the three flour tortillas that softly wrapped the shreds of flavorful duck dressed with a pineapple relish and roasted onions.

The subtitle on the dinner menu reads "A Revolution of Mexican Gastronomy," and a quick read of the dinner menu clearly suggests that there is no hyperbole in that pronouncement. Words like "guajillo" and "habanero coulis" seem right at home alongside "shrimp Provencal" and "tomato-saffron beurre blanc."

A trio of sopes, for example, was wild with creativity and flavors. Escargots were slathered with chimichurri butte; an avocado mousse flavored the shrimp and sweet plantains; and an Xico mole (chocolatey and spicy) got together with shreds of coconut. A galaxy of delicious flavors.

Entrees (among others) included steaks, tilapia, chicken, mahi mahi, salmon and rack of lamb. But it was the manner in which Gaytan flexes his culinary background that made it interesting. Roasted pork tenderloin was paired with a potato and poblano pepper galette (quite terrific) and salsa alcaparrada. A dab of ratatouille rounded it all out in fine fashion.

Tilapia got pan-seared, and boasted a "rub" of guajillo, a warm tomato-garlic relish, Mexique coleslaw and, a monitao mousseline. The balance of flavors, textures and even colors was terrific. I was especially impressed with the subtle spiciness that the guajillo chile added to the fish.

More toned-down was the salmon. A generous fillet got a proper grilling (moisture intact, flavor pronounced). It was served with a nice saffron corn porridge, asparagus, and a chipotle coulis.

Only one dessert was tried -- the quite tasty apple tart. A shingle of puff pastry was the base for the tender and nicely spiced Granny Smith apples. Vanilla ice cream created the a la mode, and a rich cajeta (caramel) sauce drizzled over all was the icing on the cake.

Pat Bruno is a local free-lance critic and author. Email brunoeats@aol.com.
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