Agem of a restaurant called Takashi is now open in Chicago

I first sampled Chef Takashi Yagihashi's food at Yoshi's, but I believe it was at Ambria that he came into his own. Yagihashi went on to run kitchens in Michigan and, most recently, Las Vegas. But in those situations he was cooking for the big guy, the owner, and now he is cooking for himself (and by extension us).

This is sensible food that can be embraced and enjoyed because you actually know what you are eating. No foams, no gels, no powders -- just delicious food. Takashi dazzles me with his foodwork simply by keeping it real.

The cuisine style is a blend of contemporary American with more than a touch of French and Asian to fill it out. So, for example, an appetizer -- sashimi of yellow-tail kampachi -- was listed on the menu just above a grilled asparagus salad. And farther down the menu under "Hot Plates" I found spring pea soup and grilled bobwhite quail. Along the way, ingredients like papaya, white balsamic vinaigrette, pickled daikon, and celery root found their way into this creation and that. Good, indeed.

Plucked from among those appetizers was the spring roll, an intricate blending of steamed sesame chicken, jicama, asparagus, peanuts, kaffir lime, curry aioli and Vietnamese spearmint that was layered, wrapped, rolled, and cut into six bite-sized pieces. Every bite was enjoyable.

I couldn't resist ordering the "Duck Fat Fried Chicken" (currently it's only available on the tasting menu). This was a first-course first for me, and one that I would order again and again. Three small pieces of chicken, fried to crunchy perfection, were paired with a mini-portion of excellent french fries and a Napa cabbage slaw jazzed up with ginger and lemongrass.

"Main Plate" choices include Alaskan halibut, skate wing, wasabi-crusted New York strip steak, and roasted duck breast. Chicken in clay pot appeared to be a signature dish and a unique creation (I saw a lot of clay pots being set down at tables around us). The top is lifted off the pot to reveal an arrangement of chicken, enoki mushrooms, haricots verts and Japanese eggplant. An array of textures and flavors practically leaped from the pot. The airline-cut chicken breast was moist and flavorful, made even better by the addition of meaty chunks of eggplant, nicely crisp haricots verte and earthy enoki mushrooms. A gentle sauce of soy, dashi and butter did a fine job of livening up the dish with a delicate citrus fragrance.

Seared Columbia River wild salmon was every bit as enjoyable as the chicken. The texture of the salmon was firm and the color was what wild salmon is all about (farm-raised salmon has faux color and is often mushy), but it was the clean flavor that made the difference (and well worth the $25 price). Sandwiched between two gently seared fillets were thin slices of eggplant and pencil-thin spears of asparagus. The salmon had bookends of tender spring peas and almonds and a cluster of pickled cauliflower, both of which were fine accompaniments.

The two desserts sampled were enjoyable. Sheep's yogurt panna cotta was wonderful, the texture a bit thicker (almost puddinglike) than the standard version, with a bevy of fresh berries and a green tea macaroon adding to the fun.

Warm pear financiere was pure perfection. The poached pear was garnished with a kumquat marmalade and toasted walnuts, with a knob of honey-vanilla ice cream taking its place in the arrangement to round out the enjoyment.

NOTE: Chef Takashi's menu changes frequently. Dishes reviewed herein may or may not be on the menu when you visit.

Pat Bruno is a free-lance writer, author and critic. E-mail brunoeats@aol.com.