3-COURSE DINNER: About $32 before tax and tip

HOURS: Monday-Thursday 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Friday-Saturday 5:30-11:30 p.m. (opening for lunch in early March)

WHEELS: valet $5; wheelchair accessible

TRY: fish soup, wood-grilled shrimp, lake perch, venison, warm apple tart

TIPS: Reservations are accepted (and highly recommended), but the limited seating can cause a traffic jam, especially on the weekends. Hang in there; it's worth it. Service is first-rate for such a new restaurant (the owner working the floor doesn't hurt). The wine list won't win any awards at this point, but it is fairly priced. There is no dress code, but most of the patrons were looking pretty spiffy, so wear the good duds if you feel like it. Not good for children.

IN A BITE: Sleek, small and serious about how it fashions its contemporary American food, this place is flying high, laying out creative dishes at prices that are very attractive.