A gentle saute of fresh fish

MAKES 4 SERVINGS (HALVES OR DOUBLES EASILY)

This cooking technique succeeds with any small whole fish or fillet. With delicately flavored fish such as northern pike and walleye, keep improvised seasonings gentle. With fuller-flavored fish such as sunfish and trout, flavors could be bolder.

2 to 2½ pounds of whole fish, or 1½ pounds of fillets

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

3 to 4 tablespoons butter or extra-virgin olive oil

1 large clove garlic, thinly sliced

¼ medium onion, cut into ¼-inch dice

Grated zest of ½ lemon

5 to 6 fresh basil leaves, torn (optional)

1 lemon, quartered

Wash fish and pat it dry. Season it on all sides with salt and pepper. Set a 12-inch nonstick saute or frying pan over medium heat. Add the butter and melt it. Do not let it burn.

Slip the fish into the pan, keeping pieces from touching. Add the garlic and onion. Cover the pan, reduce the heat to medium low and cook the fish 5 minutes.

Uncover the pan, use two nonstick spatulas to gently turn the pieces and re-cover the pan. Cook another 2 minutes, or until the fish is firm when pressed or it reaches 160 degrees on an instant-read thermometer inserted in its center.

Gently transfer the fish to a serving platter. Now raise the heat to medium high; stir the lemon zest and basil leaves (if using) into the pan juices. Swirl them around a minute or so until they are fragrant. Drizzle the pan sauce over the fish and serve hot with the lemon wedges. Serve with a big salad, cornbread and cold beer.

Nutrition facts per serving: 395 calories, 21 g fat, 9 g saturated fat, 157 mg cholesterol, 2 g carbohydrates, 48 g protein, 81 mg sodium, 0 g fiber