Barley-mushroom 'risotto'

Pearl barley captures the spirit, rather than the letter, of real risotto. The fat, toothsome ovals float in a creamy wild mushroom sauce. A salad of curly endive in a mustard vinaigrette makes the meal complete.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1 cup chopped onion

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/4 cups pearl barley

3/4 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

1 bay leaf

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1/2 ounce dried mushrooms, crumbled and rinsed

4 cups beef broth

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Grated Romano cheese

1. In a 4-quart dutch oven, saute onion in oil for 5 minutes. Add barley, thyme and bay leaf; stir to coat with oil. Add vinegar. Boil for 1 to 2 minutes until liquid evaporates. Add mushrooms, broth, 1/2 teaspoon salt and several grinds of black pepper. Bring to a boil.

2. Reduce heat slightly; cover and cook at a brisk simmer for 25 minutes or until barley is tender but still firm. Remove from heat to sit, covered, for 5 minutes.

3. Remove bay leaf. Stir in parsley before serving or sprinkle on top. Serve garnished with Romano cheese.