English summer pudding

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

1¾ to 2 pounds berries (see Note)

½ to 1 cup sugar (see Note)

8 to 10 slices white bread, crusts removed

6 ounces whipped cream, creme fraiche, thick cream or Devonshire cream

Wash and pick through berries, removing any unripe or moldy ones. (If using currants, remove stalks. If using strawberries, hull and quarter.)

Put all the berries in a saucepan with the sugar, and cook over medium heat for 3 to 5 minutes, just until the sugar has dissolved and the juice has begun to flow. Do not overcook, or you will spoil the nice, fresh flavor.

Line a bowl or pudding basin with the bread, overlapping the edges and pressing to seal. Fill in any gaps with smaller pieces of bread, if necessary. (You don't want the fruit slipping through.) Pour in the warmed berries and juice. Put a couple of slices of bread on top of the fruit, to cover, and fold over any bits of bowl-lining bread that stick up above the level of the berries.

Place a small plate (one that fits exactly inside the bowl) on top of the layer of bread. Then, on top of the plate, place a weight (a large jar or can) of 3 or 4 pounds. Leave the weighted pudding in the refrigerator overnight.

Just before serving the pudding, remove it from the refrigerator and turn it out onto a large serving dish. (You may need to warm the bowl slightly with your hands to get the pudding to "let go.") If there are any white spots left on the bread, use a little of the escaping juice to "paint" the spots.

To serve, cut into wedges and serve with your chosen form of cream.

Note: The most traditional combination is red currants, black currants and raspberries. Many versions add blackberries, cherries or quartered strawberries. American versions include blueberries. There is almost no wrong way to make this.

You do want to use primarily red fruit, because too many black currants, black raspberries or blackberries will make the dessert look muddy, instead of a brilliant, appetizing pink.

Note: The range for sugar is because some berries are sweeter than others.

Cynthia Clampitt

Nutrition facts per serving: 296 calories, 10 g fat, 6 g saturated fat, 31 mg cholesterol, 50 g carbohydrates, 4 g protein, 249 mg sodium, 6 g fiber