Basic pate a choux

June 24, 2009

Choux paste can be made start to finish using a saucepan and a sturdy wooden spoon if that's your desire or if you don't have a standing mixer, beating in the eggs by hand, but I've found that you get a better puff or rise when you beat the eggs in with a mixer. An electric beater will also work with this preparation.

MAKES ENOUGH FOR 24 GOUGERES

8 ounces (1 cup) water

4 ounces (1 stick) butter

� teaspoon salt

4 ounces (a scant cup) flour

8 ounces (4 large) eggs

Bring the water, butter and salt to a simmer over high heat. Reduce heat to medium, add the flour and stir rapidly. The flour will absorb the water quickly and a dough will form and pull away from the sides.

Keep stirring to continue cooking the flour and cook off some of the water, another minute or two. Remove pan from heat and let it cool slightly, a few minutes, or cool off the pan itself by running cold water over its base. You don't want to cook the eggs too quickly, but the choux paste needs to be warm to hot.

Add the eggs one at a time, stirring rapidly until each is combined into the paste; it takes a few seconds -- at first it will seem as though the dough won t accept them. The paste will go from shiny to flat, slippery to furry, when the eggs are fully in. Alternately, transfer the butter-flour paste to the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle and mix in the eggs one at a time.

The pate a choux can be cooked immediately or refrigerated for up to a day until ready to use.

TO MAKE GOUGERES:

To the basic pate a choux ingredients, add an additional teaspoon of salt to the water and stir in � cup of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Gruyere after the eggs have been incorporated.

On a parchment- or Silpat-lined baking sheet, pipe or spoon out golf ball-sized portions of the paste. Wet your finger with water or milk and press down any peaks, which can burn. Place the gougeres in an oven preheated to 425 degrees. Reduce heat to 350 degrees after 10 minutes to complete their cooking, 10 to 20 minutes longer. Taste or cut into one to judge doneness.

From Ratio by Michael Ruhlman

Nutrition facts per serving: 71 calories, 5 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 50 mg cholesterol, 4 g carbohydrates, 2 g protein, 147 mg sodium, 0 g fiber