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Burgers for everyone -- except Elvis

River North spot to offer 24 flavors, but no Hunka Hunka

March 30, 2007

How many ways can you dress a burger? Leon Toia would say at least 24.

That's how many burgers will be on the menu at his newest restaurant venture, Hop Haus, opening soon in River North.

That's how many burgers will be on the menu at his newest restaurant venture, Hop Haus, opening soon in River North.

Toia's not just talking about Swiss vs. American cheese, either -- try buffalo, elk and wild boar burgers paired with boutique beers. Toia has recruited two employees at the hypermodern restaurant Alinea, sommelier Justin Leone and cook Andrew Brochu, to consult on the menus.

Toia's not just talking about Swiss vs. American cheese, either -- try buffalo, elk and wild boar burgers paired with boutique beers. Toia has recruited two employees at the hypermodern restaurant Alinea, sommelier Justin Leone and cook Andrew Brochu, to consult on the menus.

Burgers popular
Toia, owner of the Leona's restaurant chain, said he is converting the Leona's outpost at 646 N. Franklin to capitalize on the late-night crowd. Hop Haus will stay open until 4 a.m. -- 5 a.m. on Saturdays -- and will offer 33 beers and 25 wines.

Burgers are a good bet. They're the most-ordered entree at a restaurant, according to the NPD Group, which tracks people's eating patterns.

"I've done Leona's, and it borders on the Cheesecake Factory in terms of the menu, but it's a very difficult exercise. So I said, let's just do burgers great and create as much diversity and excitement and flavors as we can," Toia said.

When it comes to flavors, anything goes -- almost. One concoction by Brochu and Leone, both 25, was an ode to Elvis Presley involving a deep-fried patty, bacon, peanut butter, bananas and strawberries.

"We're playing on the PB&J and Elvis idea all in one," Leone said. And, he added, it worked.

'Too far out there'
"The main components of every balanced dish should be sweet, salt to cut the richness, and then a little acid," Leone said.

But the so-called Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love burger was "too far out there" for Toia. He isn't even sure if the other wild-game burgers will fly, though he is keeping those on the menu.

"They'll probably grow legs and run out the door," he said.

Hop Haus is slated to open April 9. General manager John Kinder says the Elvis burger may still make an appearance as a special.

jfuller@suntimes.com