Buenos Aires: Sunday fair is core of city's energy

BUENOS AIRES, Argentina -- As I walked along a narrow cobblestone street in the quaint San Telmo neighborhood of Buenos Aires, I came upon a puppeteer whose antics left a group of us in hysterics.

Nearby, a tango dancer in stilettos and fishnets demanded a few centavos for her picture.

Further on, as a crowd clapped and cheered, a couple danced the tango.

This is a typical Sunday at the feria (fair), which attracts antique dealers, artists, locals and tourists alike.

To me, this is the pulse of Buenos Aires, where in an afternoon's stroll, you can experience life in this great city.

Being the country where my parents grew up, this wasn't my first trip to Buenos Aires. Each time I visit, I find there are some things I can't get enough of. The feria is one of them.

Here are a few others:

u Cafe and tango: Cafe Tortoni is a must-stop for celebrities and a former hangout of Argentine tango legend Carlos Gardel. Sip cafe con leche or catch an evening tango show; www.cafe tortoni.com.ar/index_ingles.html.

u Alvear Palace: The sweet floral scent filling the lobby is no accident. This grand, historic hotel spends more on flowers than electricity. Don't miss the city's best Sunday brunch; www.alvearpalace.com.

u Steak: La Cabana Restaurant serves up a feast. Order steak "jugoso" (juicy) and pair with a bottle of malbec wine; www.lacabanabuenosaires.com.ar.

u Leather: You'll find some of the finest in the world at great prices. Custom-make a jacket at Silvia and Mario; www.silviaymario.com.

u Shopping: Calle Florida is souvenir central. Stop at a Havanna shop for an alfajor, a sweet treat of dulce de leche between wafers, covered in chocolate.

u City highlights: La Boca, birthplace of the tango, Recoleta Cemetery, where you'll see Evita's tomb, La Casa Rosada, their version of the White House, and the stunning opera venue, Teatro Colon.