Zion National Park: A righteous retreat from cold
UTAH | Zion National Park is perfect setting for spring getaways
ZION NATIONAL PARK, Utah -- Late each winter, when the snow gets sloppy and the streams get muddy, the same thought begins creeping ever more insistently into my mind: I need green. I need warm. I need spring.
That feeling often demands beaches. But when it hit last winter, a different vision commanded -- desert, slickrock cliffs and sheer monoliths. That meant southern Utah. And in southern Utah, there is no place better for a spring getaway than Zion National Park.
Zion is in Utah's southwest corner, the part of the state that Utahns call Dixie, where the early leaders of the Mormon church kept their winter homes. It is here that spring arrives first.
The grass was still brown when we left our home in Montana in early April, headed south on Interstate 15. But as we descended the last stretch toward Zion, dropping from mountains into valleys, canyon walls soaring beside us until we reached the Virgin River, we could feel spring engulfing us.
Cottonwoods lined the river bank, flaunting fresh green leaves that swayed over acres of brilliant green grass. Wildflowers were in riotous bloom under the warm desert sun. Kids on spring break splashed in the still-frigid river. Desert this may be, but after a long winter it was a welcoming oasis.
Established in 1919, Zion was Utah's first national park. The state hosts some of the nation's most spectacular parks -- Arches, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Bryce Canyon -- but Zion bows to none of them in its magnificence.
The park is part of the Grand Staircase, a huge geological formation on the Colorado Plateau. Layers of sedimentary rock have been lifted, tilted and eroded. Its colorful cliffs stretch from Bryce Canyon to the Grand Canyon.
The staircase is enormous: The sedimentary rock layers were 10,000 feet thick before erosion began carving. The bottom layer of rock at Bryce Canyon is the top layer at Zion, and the bottom layer at Zion is the top layer at the Grand Canyon.
As the thousands of feet of sedimentary rock were lifted over the millennia, swift streams cut downward, forming the region's famous canyons. The main canyon in Zion, center of park activity and the focus of our visit, was cut by the North Fork of the Virgin River.
It is narrow, less than a quarter-mile wide. But it is deep, flanked by towering sandstone palisades 2,000 to 3,000 feet high that draw rock climbers who savor big walls. Climbers can often be spotted camped in mid-ascent, their sleeping platforms suspended from pitons.
The canyon used to be overwhelmed by traffic during the spring and summer, bringing noise, pollution and endless frustration for visitors who could find nowhere to park. The National Park Service responded by beginning a mandatory shuttle bus system in the year 2000.
During the summer months, the heart of the Zion Canyon is closed to private vehicles. Visitors board free shuttle buses near the entrance station.
While shuttle buses may rankle some who like the freedom of coming and going at will, the Zion system has proved a success. The buses run every six minutes during the day, stopping at all popular trailheads in the canyon, so people spend far less time waiting for buses than they did in the search for a parking space in the days before the buses. The buses also restored quiet to the inner canyon.
Two campgrounds are just inside the park entrance, and a grocery store is on the city side of the foot bridge. That means it's possible to spend a week or more at Zion -- hiking all the major trails inside the park and using all the amenities in town -- and never have to move your car from your campsite or motel.
Our stay was limited to only a few days, so we could not hit all of Zion's trails. But one we could not resist was Angels Landing.
Angels Landing is only a five-mile hike, but guides recommend allowing at least five hours because of the terrain the trail covers -- a 1,500-foot climb through a slot canyon and out to a 5,785-foot peak perched at the end of a narrow rock fin.
A different adventure awaits at the Temple of Sinawava. At road's end, a paved, milelong trail leads up the river. There begins a classic slot canyon, the Zion Narrows, where visitors can embark on a four- to 10-mile hike, tromping through the river as sheer vertical walls ascend on each side.
And for early season refugees from winter like us, it also is a welcome to spring.
AP