Lots of holiday dazzle in Lone Star State
TEXAS | Warm up with some holiday cheer in festive San Antonio, home to Alamo, River Walk
SAN ANTONIO, Texas -- Christmas in Texas. Hmm.
Gazing at tree lights in 70-degree weather?
(Courtesy)
ALAMO: Admission is free to this popular tourist draw, located at 300 Alamo Plaza in downtown San Antonio. Open daily, except on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day; thealamo.org.
RIVER WALK: Stroll the city's River Walk in the morning and tour it by boat at night. Tickets for Rio San Antonio Cruises boat tours cost $2 for kids ages 1 to 5 and $7.75 for older children and adults; (800) 417-4139, riosanantonio.com. Keep in mind that the walled portion of the river will be drained for maintenance Jan. 2-9, followed by the annual Mud Festival, Jan. 8-11; thesan antonioriverwalk.com.
WHERE TO STAY: Hyatt Hill Country Resort and Spa, about 20 minutes from downtown, has a nature path, children's activities and a spa, as well as an outdoor lazy river open in warmer months. Rooms start at $179; hillcountry.hyatt.com, (210) 647-1234. For downtown digs, the Hyatt Regency is the only hotel with direct access to the Alamo on one side and the River Walk on the other. See a live dixieland jazz show inside the hotel at the Landing, performed by the Jim Cullum Jazz Band; http://landing.com. Rooms start at $159; sanantoniore gency.hyatt.com, (210) 222-1234.
TRAVELING WITH A BABY: Rather than lug along a suitcase of diapers, we used a service called Babies Travel Lite, which ships diapers, formula and other necessities worldwide. They shipped supplies to our hotel room; babiestravellite.com, (888) 450-5483.
This Chicagoan was skeptical.
But a recent visit to San Antonio made me realize it's possible to feel the holiday spirit without feeling the holiday chill.
On a direct flight from O'Hare to San Antonio, it took my family and I less than three hours to arrive in the "heart of Texas."
Once there, it wasn't balmy, but I was pleased to trade in my wool coat for a light jacket. Three days later, it was pushing 80 degrees.
San Antonio is known for two main sites: its River Walk and the Alamo.
I had seen the city's famed River Walk in the past. But in the winter months, it undergoes a transformation unmatched the rest of the year.
The best way to take in the festive decor is by boat. We embarked on a 5 p.m. river cruise, just in time for the lights to turn on and the town to come alive. Evening chatter picked up as the songs of mariachi and jazz bands filled the air.
It was an enchanting, majestic ride, with thousands of glimmering lights all around; they fell from cyprus trees like tresses of glowing hair and dazzled over bridges like golden fairy dust.
When it ended, I wanted to do it again.
After all, this is the only time of year that River Walk trees are lit up. It's a tight window, given that after New Year's Day, the river is drained and cleaned.
We headed to the Alamo, which was more simple in its decor but boasted an ornate tree in the plaza before it. No matter what time of year, the Alamo remains among the most visited historical sites in the country.
To me, the city itself, its culture, food and shopping were more of a draw and the Alamo was a bonus.
"We suffer from John Wayne syndrome," said David Steward, director of the Alamo.
Forty eight years after the Western icon starred in "The Alamo," tourists still expect to see a sprawling compound on a remote Texan landscape, just like the film depicts. Only a fraction of the fort is now left after the 13-day standoff during the Texas Revolution.
I didn't truly appreciate the crush of the Mexican army until I entered, of all places, the gift shop. There, a diorama intricately lays out the soldiers' positions. I walked out with a faux 'coon skin hat for my 16-month-old and a box of Alamo-shaped cookies, thereby contributing to the $5 million operation that makes up 93 percent of the Alamo's budget.
The Market Square area in this easily traversed downtown bursts with authentic Mexican restaurants, an outdoor market, street vendors, musicians and performers.
It's always Christmas at Mi Tierra Cafe, 218 Produce Row, a lively eatery open 24 hours a day. The landmark restaurant -- decorated for Christmas year-round -- includes a life-sized painting of Bill Clinton jogging, dozens of pinatas, murals and strolling minstrels. It's a festival for the taste buds -- and the eyes.
We tracked down another top meal outside of town at Rudy's Bar-B-Q, the area's self-designated "worst BBQ." Customers eat on sheets of plastic, shoveling in the famous cream of corn while making sandwiches from bread bought buy by the loaf.
Since we were traveling with our son, Daniel, we were thankful to spend some of our trip at a resort just 20 minutes from downtown. The pace at Hyatt Hill Country slowed to a Texas drawl. Its crackling fireplace and $10,000 Christmas display made out of candy gave us the holiday greeting we craved, no matter what the weather.