In Denver, find unconventional fun amid the politics
DENVER -- When the Democratic National Convention rolls into town this week, it will be the latest event in a city where a fascinating mix of people have met over the centuries.
Once the last stop for miners, prospectors and traders on their way to mountain streams, and the modern trading post for skiers, snowboarders and hikers on the way to the Rockies, Denver always has had an interesting mix of temporary inhabitants. These days, plenty of attractions keep one from moving on at all. And people are staying. U.S. Census estimates show that Denver's population grew by almost 22,000 in 2007 to 588,349, making it the nation's 26th-largest city.
If you're among the estimated 42,000 politicians, delegates and supporters filing into the state capital's 94 hotels to attend the convention, you will visit a city with a tremendous variety of entertainment.
Denver had a theater before building a hospital or school, and now it has enough cultural institutions to warrant hosting the mammoth National Performing Arts Convention earlier this summer. The city also boasts many art and history museums, culinary delights and sporting endeavors -- both recreational and spectator.
If you have just a few hours to sneak out amid the parade of speakers at the Pepsi Center and Invesco Field at Mile High, the convention's two main sites, and the parties, here are a few fun suggestions:
16TH STREET MALL: This is the city's commercial, entertainment and culinary spine, with everything from movie theaters to bars to boutiques. The strip is closed to public automobiles. Sleek hybrid buses offer free rides, a boon if you're laden with items or torpid from a big meal.
DENVER ART MUSEUM: The most striking building downtown, it combines a modernist, blocklike structure built in 1971 and a 2006 wing with sharp angles designed to mimic the Rockies' peaks.
This museum is manageable in a day. It has a strong permanent collection of contemporary art, with more than 4,500 works including photography and multimedia. It houses the archive of Bauhaus artist Herbert Bayer, who spent nearly three decades in Colorado.
But the museum's strength is folk art. Nearly every floor has space dedicated to indigenous arts, such as African, Asian, pre-Columbian, Spanish and Native American. The latter is robust, as might be expected, given the location.
DENVER PERFORMING ARTS COMPLEX: The country's second-largest such complex, its theaters and halls are home to at least 11 groups, including: Opera Colorado, Colorado Ballet, Denver Center Attractions' Broadway Series and the Colorado Symphony Orchestra. The latter, which arose in 1989 from the ashes of the defunct Denver Symphony and was nurtured by conducting dynamo Marin Alsop, is a fine-tuned ensemble that plays much American and contemporary repertoire.
Farther out is the famous Red Rocks Amphitheatre, home to rock, pop and more.
BYERS-EVANS HOUSE MUSEUM: This quaint Victorian house, built in 1883, was home to William Byers, who founded the Rocky Mountain News. (The News is owned by The E.W. Scripps Co., which also owns Scripps Howard News Service.) The philanthropic efforts of the Evans family (which bought the house in 1889) were crucial to Denver's cultural development, including the founding of the Denver Art Museum.
Need more? Try the popular Denver Zoo, the Denver Botanic Gardens or the Denver Museum of Nature and Science. There's also the Molly Brown Museum (yes, the unsinkable one), a U.S. mint producing 10 billion coins a year, and a downtown amusement park, Elitch Gardens Theme Park.
And there are sports.
Being so tantalizingly close to the Rockies can drive outdoorsy people crazy if they don't have a day for hiking, so why not burn off energy with a quick bike ride? Denver has 850 miles of paved and off-road trails in the city and surrounding counties. You can rent bikes at such locations as Confluence Kayaks (1615 Platte St.) and Cherry Creek Bike Rack (171 Detroit St. in Cherry Creek North).
For spectators, the Colorado Rockies again come into play -- the Major League baseball team, that is. Last year the team lost in the World Series, although it is struggling this year. But hitter-friendly Coors Field rarely has a boring game. Depending on the season, there's also the Denver Broncos (National Football League), Colorado Avalanche (National Hockey League), Denver Nuggets (National Basketball Association), Colorado Crush (Arena Football League), Colorado Rapids (Major League Soccer) and more.
Like any metropolis, Denver has its mix of high-brow and low-cost eateries:
Rialto Cafe (934 16th St.): From breakfast burritos to nighttime cocktails, this stylish stop on the 16th Street Mall serves American foods. The meaty main courses have gotten high ratings locally, but even a drink or local microbrew and some of Rialto's appetizers are worth it.
Croc's Mexican Grill (1630 Market St.): Excellent food and budget bliss mark this little bar/restaurant. Well, the gigantic plastic crocodile that hangs above the bar really marks the spot. The chile rellenos are as big as burritos and lightly breaded, the side dishes delectably fresh.
Ship Tavern (Broadway Avenue and Tremont Place): In the historic Brown Palace Hotel, this steak-and-seafood restaurant has hearty food -- and a crow's nest.
Pint's Pub (221 W. 13th Ave.): A red British telephone booth stands outside this London-style pub near the museum and political district. The pub offers fish and chips and a splendid selection of artisan brews. Don't miss Dark Star Ale, served at room temperature. Who says Denverites drink only Coors Light?
LoDo District: The Lower Downtown Historic District is home to many bars and restaurants, including Wynkoop Brewing Co. (1634 18th St.); 9th Door (1808 Blake St.); Alto Restaurant (1320 15th St.); Common Grounds (1601 17th St.); Fado Irish Pub (1735 19th St.); LoDo's Bar & Grill (1946 Market St.); Rio Grande (1525 Blake St.); Sports Column (1930 Blake St.), and the Tavern Downtown (1949 Market St.).
Perhaps the most important dining tip for visitors: Drink water. The higher altitude can dehydrate you, and you can stave off migraines by constantly sipping water.
Scripps Howard News Service