The year's best
2008 IN REVIEW | Some ups and downs during 12 months of globe-trotting
It's been a tough year for travel: fewer flights, fuel surcharges, a tanking economy and, until recently, high gas prices coupled with a weak U.S. dollar. Travelers in 2008 suffered more punches than you'll find in a "Rocky" box set. That's why I feel especially lucky to have bounced around the globe as much as I did, from the Swiss Alps to sub-Saharan Africa; from an ice hotel in Quebec to the middle of the Australian Outback.
My peripatetic lifestyle taught me a few things, like wanderlust is a thirst that can never be quenched. And hotels should provide toothpaste instead of sewing kits and shower caps.
PHOTO GALLERY
Travel highlights of '08
Since there's no better day than Dec. 31 for reflecting on the rapidly ending year, here's a look at some of my 2008 travel highlights, peppered with a few lowlights.
And here's to hoping everyone -- not just newspaper reporters fortunate enough to land the travel beat -- will hit the road next year. It doesn't matter whether it's a camping trip in Michigan or a once-in-a-lifetime African safari, just go.
And don't forget to pack your toothpaste.
Tallinn, Estonia. I wasn't expecting much when my cruise ship stopped at the seaside capital of this former Soviet republic. But the well-preserved medieval Old Town, the lively street cafe scene and the parade that just happened to take over the cobblestone streets during my brief visit instantly enchanted me; www.tourism. tallinn.ee
McCormick House in Hayward, Wis. No lace doilies here. The owners of this sophisticated, chic B&B in the middle of muskie country have thought of everything, from evening wine service and movies in the garden to a breakfast menu better than you'll find in most high-end hotels. Rates start at $119 a night. It's a bargain -- and worth the nearly eight-hour drive from Chicago; www.mcormickhouseinn.com, (715) 934-3339.
Crystal Symphony's Baltic Sea and northern Europe voyage. Superb food and service, a high crew-to-guest ratio and roomy cabins -- most with private verandas -- make it no surprise that Readers of Travel + Leisure magazine have voted Crystal the world's best large-ship cruise line for 13 years in a row. Northern Europe is ideal cruising territory, especially in the summer, when daylight stretches well past 10 p.m. Crystal Cruises has more than half a dozen trips through this part of the world next year, starting at $3,615 a person; www.crys talcruises.com/
Lobster rolls at the Clam Shack in Kennebunkport, Maine. Unlike traditional lobster rolls, these babies are served in hamburger buns. They could've served it in an old shoe for all I cared: the sweet, freshly shredded meat from a 1?206-140?-pound lobster is why folks line up to pay $16.50 for a sandwich with no sides; www.theclam shack.net, (207) 967-3321.
Chef Mathias Dahlgren's fine-dining eatery in Stockholm's Grand Hotel. The casually elegant, 38-seat restaurant dishes up Dahlgren's delicious take on Swedish cuisine using the freshest ingredients. No wonder the place snagged a Michelin star not long after its debut last year. The adjoining Food Bar is a good spot to sample small plates; www.grandhotel.se/
Mayflower Inn & Spa in Washington, Conn., less than a two-hour drive from New York City airports. The perfect antidote for frayed nerves, this 30-room country estate oozes relaxation, and not just because there's no cell phone reception. This kind of luxury comes at a steep price, with room rates starting at $520. If that doesn't scare you off, check out the ultimate indulgence: the "Above and Beyond Experience" at $4,800 a person for three nights, including meals and unlimited spa treatments. Let me repeat: unlimited spa treatments, a k a Heaven; www.mayflowerinn.com/
Paso Robles Wine Festival in Paso Robles, Calif. This laid back, down-to-earth California town is the anti-Napa. On the third weekend in May, it holds what's billed as the state's largest outdoor wine-tasting event, where $55 gets you unlimited samples from more than 100 producers. Book a room at the cozy Hotel Cheval (www.hotelcheval.com) for this year's fest May 15-17 or head over March 20-22 for the town's equally lauded Zinfandel Festival; www.pasowine.com/
Canoe Bay, near the tiny town of Chetek, Wis., is an intimate retreat that's all about peace, quiet and relaxation -- a solid tripod on which to build a romantic weekend. Needless to say, no kids allowed. Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired rooms and cottages share the secluded property with lakes, walking trails and a superb restaurant. To up the romance ante, book a private table in the restaurant's wine cellar. Room rates start at $350; www.canoebay.com/
Ice Hotel, just outside of Quebec. People get married at the hotel's ice chapel, so maybe the romance is lost on me. But sleeping in a hotel made of snow and ice is about as sexy as cleaning the bathroom. And at least I'm not cold when I'm cleaning the bathroom. Packages, including dinner and accommodations, start at $265 a person; www.icehotel-canada.com/
My husband and I couldn't figure out which bus would get us to the train station in Norrkoping, Sweden. Sensing our confusion, a commuter not only led us to the correct bus, he rode it with us and then walked us to the train station, where he waited on the platform until our train arrived. Thank you, David Hanaeus.
Missing a trip to Iceland in February because I got pneumonia. I'm better, but Iceland's economy is near death. As the Icelandic krona continues its freefall, bargain-hunting travelers can cash in next year with a visit to this historically pricey destination; www.ice landtouristboard.com/