Say (Italian) cheese, and the varieties are endless

Robiola. Ricotta. Parmigiano Reggiano. Buratta. Mozzarella di bufula. Caprino. Testun barricato. Gorgonzola dolce. Scimudin. Pecorino Romano. Ciabot. La Rossa. Formaggio di Fossa.

These are just a few of the Italian cheeses I have grown to love over the years.

I have always been a fan of cheese and have vivid memories of stopping at the local cheese store from a very young age. Back then it was Boursin, aged Cheddar and Brie. Little did I know how many varieties of cheese were available, especially from Italy.

It was eight years ago, when I traveled and worked throughout Northern Italy, that I became enamored with the world of artisan Italian cheese. It was formaggio di Fossa that had me sold, a nutty hard cheese made of sheep's milk and typical to the region of Emilia Romagna and Le Marche. The most interesting feature to this cheese is that it is buried underground to age for four months, adding to its nuttiness and earthiness.

Besides its amazing flavor there is a history and culture surrounding this cheese, which is typical of most of the cheeses of Italy; as in all categories of Italian cuisine, each region has its own types for which it is known.

When I was contemplating coming to work at Spiaggia, the sophisticated cheese program was one of things that helped seal the deal. My favorite day of the month here is when our cheese delivery comes in. It's usually 30 to 40 types that we have pre-ordered a month in advance.

We use Italian cheese exclusively, and the goal is to have a great balance of creamy, hard, soft, goat's milk, cow's milk, sheep's milk, blues, stinky, sharp, nutty, and ultimately unique (anyone for sheep's milk cheese wrapped in tobacco leaves?). All of the cheeses are paired with special condiments ranging from nuts to fruit marmalades to honey combs to pickled items.

My love for cheese has led not only to eating tons of it and continuously seeking out new producers and types to expand our program, but it is also featured as the primary component in many of our recipes.

One of my favorites to use in cooking is ricotta, specifically a brand named Calabro, made in East Haven, Conn. It is creamy, rich and delicious. At right is an easy and tasty recipe perfect for a small crowd.

Missy Robbins is the executive chef at Spiaggia, 980 N. Michigan.