Best barbecue in Houston

No one knows Texas barbecue like Robb Walsh, food critic and author of five cookbooks, including Legends of Texas Barbecue (Chronicle Books, $18.95). In that book, Walsh describes Southern barbecue as a proud thoroughbred whose bloodlines are easily traced, while the Texas version "is a feisty mutt with a whole lot of crazy relatives. ... I think it's fair to say that Texas has more variations in its barbecue styles than any other state." Walsh breaks down Texas barbecue into four categories, and he recommends four places in Houston to try each.

This meat market/convenience store is where you come on the weekends for "barbacoa," a traditional technique used by Mexican ranch hands who wrapped cow heads and other cuts of meat in leaves or foil and cooked them in pits with hot coals. Walsh's favorite is the barbacoa de borrego, a mix of mutton and goat in a rich chili sauce. Buy it by the pound with a stack of hot tortillas. 609 Patton St., (713) 699-0820.

"It's a dump," Walsh said, and Thelma has been known to give lip to customers who make the mistake of complaining about a long wait for food. But her African-American-style 'cue keeps them coming back. "Black barbecue places cook brisket until it totally falls apart," Walsh said. "Her ribs are great, too." Order the brisket "in and out" to get lots of the black char mixed in with the tender bits. 1020 Live Oak St., (713) 228-2528.

This place got its start decades ago by an African-American pit boss. Customer Jerry Pizzitola loved it so much, he bought it (and renamed it). It's one of the few spots that still cooks in the so-called cowboy-style of barbecue, which means putting the meat directly over the heat. "Not many places do that anymore," said Walsh, who's especially fond of the brisket. 1703 Shepherd Dr., (713) 227-2283.

The concept of barbecued sausage originated in Texas' German belt in the 1800s, Walsh said. It's basically smoked meat, and Goode makes it great. "It's the white people favorite," said Walsh, who recommends the smoked duck and country sausage. 5109 Kirby Dr., (713) 522-2530.