Traditional beverage pairings being washed to sidelines

When Goose Island brewmaster Greg Hall does beer pairing events, he always asks his audience, "Who likes chocolate?"

Usually every person shoots a hand in the air -- until Hall asks who likes dark chocolate.

"At that point about half of the hands go down," he said.

That's when Hall works his magic, pairing dark chocolate and Pere Jacques, Goose Island's sweet, complex Belgian-style beer.

"Try [dark chocolate] with a sweet beer and you'll never buy another Hershey bar again for the rest of your life," he says.

Increasingly, bars, restaurants and specialty stores are flexing their creative abilities to help customers discover the world beyond traditional wine pairings.

At Pops for Champagne, 601 N. State, every item on chef Andrew Brochu's menu, from king crab with pea puree to frites with celery salt, is designed to pair with specific Champagnes. Champagne's natural sweetness melds easily with saltier or savory concoctions, Brochu says.

While the pairings aren't listed, Pops' servers are trained to encourage patrons to try the recommended hot or cold dish with their selected bubbly.

Earlier this month, Three Floyds Brewing Company of Munster, Ind. hosted a beer pairing dinner with chef Paul Virant of Vie in Western Springs. For $110, guests enjoyed a seven-course meal that included fried frog legs and pilsner and slow-cooked goat with pale ale.

Even casual spots such as River North burger joint Hop Haus and sandwich shop Jerry's in Wicker Park suggest beer pairings on their menus.

Wine has not been totally neglected. Chocolate Grape, which opens this month in Wicker Park, specializes in, as the name suggests, pairing wines with chocolate.

In addition to a food menu, Chocolate Grape offers a menu of chocolate-heavy desserts and truffles, each paired with a wine.

Chef Pat Karpowski also is developing wine pairings for breads baked on-premise and their companion savory oils.

Allecia Vermillion