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Almost everywhere you look, there are bright red, juicy, delicious tomatoes. They are one of the foods (and yes, a tomato is a fruit, not a vegetable) I can never get enough of when in season.

My favorite and simplest preparation is to slice them and drizzle over a bit of extra virgin olive oil. The aroma and grassy notes of a good olive oil bring out the tomato flavor.

Recent headlines may have created a lot of confusion about this very popular, largely imported oil.

A University of California at Davis study on olive oil says many of the olive oils lining supermarket shelves in the United States are not the top-grade extra virgin oils their labels declare (and for which we're paying good money).

Researchers subjected imported and California-produced samples to sensory and chemical tests, and found that more than two-thirds of samples failed to meet international and U.S. standards. Critics of the report questioned some of the testing used and pointed out that the study was funded in part by California olive producers.

The study comes as the U.S. Department of Agriculture prepares to put in place a new set of olive oil labeling standards.

The USDA standards, to take effect in October, are based largely on the International Olive Council's (IOC) standards, which have been used and recognized by olive oil producers and marketers around the world for many decades.

The revised U.S. grade standards include mandatory tests for flavor, odor, color, fatty acid composition, ultraviolet absorption and, most important, to determine the purity of the olive oil.

My rule of thumb when looking at all the bottles of olive oils on the supermarket shelf is not to be fooled by beautiful packaging; label reading is a must.

Only a small percentage of olive oil labeled as "Italian" or "imported from Italy" is actually produced in Italy from Italian olives; most of the olives are grown and processed in Greece and Spain and shipped to Italy just for packaging.

Phrases such as "packed in" or "bottled in" is a sign that the olives themselves were grown elsewhere. Look for clear and precise language; for example, "grown and pressed in Italy" or "made from Italian olives."

The factors that go into producing a great wine are similar to that of producing great oil - variety, climate, soil ripeness at harvest and age all help to determine the qualities of an olive oil.

So cooking with olive oil is akin to cooking with wine, and drizzling olive oil over summer tomatoes is akin to sipping a fine wine. A high price does not guarantee quality. Reading labels and tasting (whenever possible) is the best way to discover the oils you'll enjoy.

Know your type

What's the difference between oils-

First remember that all olive oils, regardless of the variety, are 100 percent fat and contain the same amount of calories!

Extra virgin olive oil: The finest and fruitiest of olive oil grades. It is also the most expensive, with a color ranging from deep gold or greenish gold to bright, grassy green.

Birthed from the first cold press of the olives, extra virgin olive oil is only 1 percent acid and shines when used for salads, dressings and vinaigrettes; drizzled on tomatoes, baked potatoes, pasta or cooked vegetables; brushed onto fish or meat before serving, or as a replacement for butter in mashed potatoes or on toast rubbed with garlic and sprinkled with herbs.

The smoothest of the olive oils, it must have as defined by the IOC a "perfect" aroma, flavor and color. It is a delicate product and, for the best flavor, should be packaged in a light-safe bottle (dark green or amber) or tin and stored in a cool, dark place.

Virgin olive oil: Its acidity level can be up to 2 percent. It should also taste smooth and have a good aroma, flavor and color.

Olive oil: A blend of refined and virgin olive oil, with an acidity level of less than 1.5 percent.

Olive oil with flavor or an aroma that is less than perfect is refined to produce an odorless, colorless and tasteless oil. Virgin olive oil is then added to give it some flavor and color. The flavor and, ultimately, price of olive oil varies depending on the amount of virgin olive oil added.

Don't fry away your money. The IOC recommends using pure olive oil for frying, since the flavor of higher priced extra virgin olive oil tends to break down at frying temperatures.

Olive oil actually forms a crust on the surface of food when fried that impedes the penetration of oil and improves its flavor. As a result, less of the oil is actually absorbed in the food, resulting in a lower fat content than food fried in other oils.

One more treat

Olive oil is among the healthiest of fats. It is rich in antioxidants and contains high levels of oleic acid. So read those labels, and consider having two different types of olive oils on hand at all times.

And by the way, for another great summer treat, drizzle a little extra virgin olive oil on a scoop of vanilla ice cream and then sprinkle sea salt on top. Your taste buds will be overjoyed!

Phil Lempert is the editor of SupermarketGuru.com and reports on the latest trends on NBC's "Today" show, ABC's "The View" and local Chicago news programs. E-mail Phil@SupermarketGuru.com.