At the Chef's Table: Pumpkin seed brittle pits sweet, savory
Childhood confection never ceases to please
My fascination with pumpkin seeds began with a pastime I shared with my dad. When I was young, he and I would attempt to toast our leftover pumpkin seeds from the Halloween season, something we all have tried — emphasis on tried.
The process usually resulted in plenty of head-scratching and hypothesis-indulging, channeling Dr. Emmett Brown, on what we could do with those seeds.
(Richard A. Chapman/Sun-Times)
Years later, after I had become a professional chef, I experienced the same head-scratching, the same failed culinary experiments, the same anxiety to try and be continuously inventive. After all, what will those food writers say?
Pumpkin seeds are an intricate part of “American cuisine,” found in everything from mole to granola. They cross cuisines the way most of us intermix our lattes with hazelnuts and soymilk.
I enjoy the interesting texture and subtle finish of seeds that have been gently toasted and seasoned with ancho chili powder, granulated sugar and fine sea salt.
The seeds you find in most recipes are of the shelled variety from a larger squash or pumpkin. I prefer to visit Latin grocery stores and experiment with the different brands they carry. The ones in the husk shells will not work well for this recipe and may leave you with a fibrous, chewy texture in your mouth.
The seeds should be shiny and still contain their green outer skin. A dull, dry seed indicates age and overhandling, so stay away from those.
Brittle is another confection that can be found throughout many cultures. I think it is part of our nature to be drawn to its combination of sweet and savory.
I remember the excitement of opening up a tin of peanut brittle in the back seat of my parents’ car, my wide-eyed anticipation of the bittersweet caramel and the salty peanuts. I am always looking to replicate those same feelings and reactions in my diners.
Making brittle can be a little intimidating, even for those in the culinary profession. It is a very basic technique but may require more than one try in order for you to feel comfortable.
Once it becomes familiar, you can start to vary the recipe to suit your needs, such as incorporating different types of seeds or nuts.
I like to make brittle with Midwestern black walnuts, as the caramel helps accent the bitterness of the nuts. Almond brittle works great as a companion to cheese during the holiday season.
And I like tossing pumpkin seed brittle over a salad, serving it with dessert or tying it up with raffia to create a nice gift. After all, nothing is better than having a taste of your childhood!
Bernie Laskowski is the chef at the Park Grill, 11 N. Michigan.