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We need more, not fewer, cookies

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Updated: January 20, 2013 6:07AM



Cookies and Christmas are inseparable. This association dates back to the ancient Germanic Julfest, when animals were sacrificed to ensure a mild winter. Those who couldn’t afford to slaughter their animals made a symbolic sacrifice by eating springerle, cookies imprinted with animal pictures.

The ur-cookie — unaffiliated with any holiday — probably began B.C. as a test cake. In what is now Persia, small bits of dough were routinely baked to assess the batch’s quality before it was worked into a cake. The dough was sweetened with sugar, and the growth of sugar cultivation in the ancient Near East paralleled the evolution of cake — and thus, cookie -— making.

In early English cookbooks, cookies were referred to as “small cakes”; now, Brits call them “biscuits,” which like the Italian “biscotti,” means “twice cooked.”

These biscuit-like cookies are pre-cooked, given time to rest, then cooked one final time to achieve characteristic crunchiness.

For some reason, however, the cookie — perhaps the greatest of all treats — has largely vanished from American menus.

Some restaurants, of course, still serve cookies. I’ve enjoyed Western Electric Butter Cookies at La Madia (59 W. Grand) and several types of cookies at Nightwood (2119 S. Halsted), where Jason Vincent tells us they’re “the only dessert that has been on the menu since day one.”

Nonetheless, cookies are disappearing from many menus, which leaves us wondering why.

Michael Wallach of Park Grill (11 N. Michigan) tried serving cookies and laments they “simply were not selling.” Susan Goss of West Town Tavern (1309 W. Chicago) believes low sales were because people “think of cookies more as a snack.”

Kady Yost of Pump Room (1301 N. State Pkwy.) further speculates that it may be a perception issue because “some restaurants consider cookies to be not refined.”

Ben Roche of Baume & Brix (351 W. Hubbard) believes cookies are “excluded from restaurants because they’re ‘not exciting’ or creative, and nowadays restaurants are pushing to be more unique and innovative.”

Bucking the trend, Roche serves jars of cookies and milk for dessert, saying, “We were a bit worried people would think it was a cop-out to do something so ‘simple,’ but people have been raving about them.”

Of course they’re raving: cookies are wonderful.

E-mail detective@suntimes.com.



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