In praise of puddings
Practicality bubbles to surface as aging foods get used in warm and comforting recipes
Sweet or salty, custardy or crunchy-crusted, puddings are a palate pleaser as well as a thrifty way, once you have a blueprint in hand, to use soon-to-spoil items in the pantry and fridge.
Given the state of the economy, that's something you can feel good about.
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Practicality aside, though, these bread-based beauties also are comforting, infusing homes with inviting scents as they bubble and bake. It's hard to put a price on that this time of year.
"Puddings remind me of the honesty and simplicity of a grandma's cooking," says Cindy Schuman, pastry chef at Sepia in the West Loop. "And generally, they don't require many ingredients."
Of course, the dish usually must start with a firm -- OK, stale -- foundation. Most often, it is bread. But cake and croissants certainly aren't out of the question.
"This actually is a case of 'the older, the better,' " says Mike Cisternino, chef de cuisine at Tavern at the Park near Millennium Park. "Otherwise the bread can't soak up moisture."
Malika Ameen, executive pastry chef at Aigre Doux in River North, agrees, suggesting you jump on board the pudding train the day after a bakery run.
"Because bakeries don't use preservatives the way supermarket brands do, the bread needs to be eaten the day of or it won't taste good," Ameen said. "But that same bread is fantastic when it's [repurposed]."
When choosing what kind of bread to use to construct a pudding, Cisternino suggests steering clear of anything that's too dense.
Brioche and challah work well for sweet puddings, he says. "For something savory, a country loaf, one that's not too airy, is perfect. But you can use ordinary white bread in either case."
Just be sure to cut the crusts off of a rustic loaf if your concoction is going to bake in the oven. Otherwise, you run the risk of creating a dry, burnt dish.
Ameen, never one to waste the good stuff, says she likes to grind up the crusts and use them to top a savory pudding.
"I'll mix them with Parmesan and place them on top during the last few minutes of cooking," she says.
Your imagination need not end there.
Ameen sometimes fashions hearty puddings with mushrooms and sausage, while Cisternino has been known to satiate a sweet tooth by soaking bread in a chocolate-milk-like slurry studded with chocolate chips.
It is important to note that the ratio of liquid to solid should be close to even. Most puddings (though not all) will receive a mixture of eggs and heavy cream or half- and-half atop the dry ingredients. However, Tony Priolo, chef-owner of Piccolo Sogno in River West, opts to saturate his pudding-like Tuscan bread soup in tomato-laced broth before frying it in a pan.
Timing is key. Schuman allows dry ingredients to steep in the liquid for about 30 minutes.
"You'll know it's ready to go in when the bread is spongy and moist and much of the liquid has been absorbed," says Ameen, who then pops her pudding creations into a not-too-hot oven (325 to 350 degrees).
While your pudding bakes, watch it closely. Prevent burning by covering with foil halfway through, if necessary. And while not all puddings require it, using a water bath is not a bad idea. It'll help it cook evenly, Cisternino says.
Jennifer Olvera is a Brookfield free-lance writer.