Women & wine
TRENDS | Growing connection a cause for celebration
Though they have never met, Karen Hand, Alpana Singh and Charla Sweeley have more in common than their passion for wine.
These Illinois women share common gender-related reactions of surprise as they go about their day-to-day jobs in the wine industry, once male-dominated.
(John J. Kim/Sun-Times/Courtesy)
Blue Sky Vineyards is one of 10 wineries within a 25-mile range on the Shawnee Hills Wine Trail in scenic southern Illinois, a 340-mile drive south of Chicago. There, nestled in Shawnee National Forest -- within sight of the glaciers' retreat from the last ice age-- are 12 hilly acres where the grapes for Blue Sky's 18 varietals are grown.
Blue Sky offers wine tastings, a restaurant, entertainment and lodging; nearby are farm stands, antique stores, golf, fishing and hunting.
Location: 3150 S. Rocky Comfort Road, Makanda
Hours: 10 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays; noon to 7 p.m. Sundays
Lodging: Bed and breakfasts available at Blue Sky and elsewhere in area
Upcoming events: St. Francis/Care Animal Shelter Benefit, Sept. 21; Colorfest, Oct. 11, 12
Phone: (618) 995-9463
For more information: Visit www.blueskyvineyard.com
The reactions of subtle and, sometimes, not-so-subtle sexism don't astonish Deborah Brenner, author of Women of the Vine (John Wiley & Sons, $16.95), a book chronicling the inspirational journeys of 20 women in wine who have had to fight adversity and conquer gender stereotypes.
Brenner knows all too well -- and applauds -- the efforts made by her book's enterprising subjects. Her profiles include winemaker Amelia Ceja of Ceja Vineyards, who could not speak a word of English when she came to the United States at age 12; winemaker Kimberlee Nicholls of Markham Vineyards, who was in dental school when she decided on a career in wine; winemaker/consultant Signe Zoller, who left a failing, abusive marriage to pursue a life surrounded by vineyards and vats, and Stephanie Browne, founder of Divas Uncorked, the first wine club for black women.
"These are the pioneers of the wine industry -- down-to-earth women who had to learn to first believe in themselves," Brenner explains. As owner of the Women of the Vine Cellars, the first-of-its-kind company to unite award-winning female winemakers under one label, Brenner recently visited Chicago to introduce her Country Roads label.
"The world of wine is neither a man's world nor a woman's world ... but now, as we enter a true golden age for wines, women are increasingly visible as leaders in every aspect of wine growing and wine making," writes winemaker Gina Gallo of California's famed Gallo Family Vineyards in the introduction to Brenner's book.
While increasingly visible, women in the wine industry are still in the minority, according to Karen Hand, award-winning winemaker at Blue Sky Vineyards in the heart of Shawnee National Forest, six hours south of Chicago; Alpana Singh, director of wine and spirits for Chicago's Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, Inc., and a master sommelier for five years, and Charla Sweeley, manager of the Wine Discount Center in Highland Park.
In Illinois, for example, Hand points out that only four of the state's 70 winemakers are women.
"People are surprised that I'm the winemaker, but then southern Illinois tends to be sexist," remarks the 50-year-old Hand, a 13-year veteran of the wine industry.
Not unlike a farmer, Hand frets over her grape crop -- grown in a federally designated area recognized for its uniqueness in grape growing -- during late frosts, too much rain and too much hot sun.
Barring any unforeseen complications -- natural or otherwise -- Hand predicts a good, large grape harvest this year. "But we won't know the results and the actual success of the wines for another one or two years," she cautions.
"Women in wine are definitely getting more recognition now," says Singh, who stresses that ethnicity and youth are equally important trends in the wine industry.
"Our industry now is more youth-driven. You meet the wine buyer and are likely to ask, 'Is he old enough to shave?' We're no longer just talking about Caucasian males, but we're talking about great female sommeliers and winemakers from different ethnic backgrounds," says Singh, born to Indian parents who moved to California from the Fiji Islands.
The four wine experts agree a woman's palate generally is more complex and sensitive than a man's, creating a different appreciation for wine.
That accounts for Sweeley's obsession with Domaine de la Tourmaline 2006 Muscadet Serre et Maine; Hand's preference for Blue Sky's semi-dry Seyval and Cabernet Franc, a blending of black currants and plums with mellow hints of oak; Brenner's favorites of crisp sauvignon blancs or dry, non-sweet roses, and Singh's fascination with rieslings.
When it comes to wines produced by women, Sweeley -- who gave up a 20-year career in cardiovascular research five years ago to professionally pursue her passion for wine -- favors Catena Malbec from winemaker Laura Catena of Argentina, and Balbo Malbec, Balbo Cabernet Sauvignon and Balbo Brioso from winemaker Susana Balbo of Argentina.
Brenner, 41, who lives 12 miles north of New York City and left a high-end technology job of 16 years following Sept. 11, 2001, and a 2002 divorce, attributes the increased popularity of wine to promotion of its health benefits; the expansion of wine bars and wine flights, which give consumers an opportunity to explore different varietals, and wine pairings in restaurants, which help consumers demystify how wines and foods can complement each other.
Admitting that sommeliers get bored easily, Singh expresses excitement about great wines emerging from Greece, Argentina, South Africa, Uruguay and parts of the United States, including Illinois.
Singh says chardonnay and good lambrusco are making comebacks, light reds are now being served chilled, and good boxed wines are gaining acceptance. Her top recommendations: any Greek wines (especially Assyrtiko, a white) and Vouvray, Sancerre and Muscadet from Loire Valley in France.
Just as the 2004 film "Sideways" increased sales of pinot noir nationwide, Singh predicts "Bottle Shock" -- a 2008 flick depicting the struggles of a small California winery -- will impact Napa Valley wine sales. "People want to get on the wine bandwagon one way or another," Singh acknowledges.
The experts agree that women -- who make 70 percent of wine purchases, according to statistics cited by Brenner -- tend to buy wines by name recognition or what they have enjoyed with other couples or in restaurants, while men still tend to purchase the more expensive status and collectible wines.
"And we know that women will buy wine in blue bottles, regardless of the varietal or quality," an amused Hand interjects.
"Regardless of the gender or the reason for buying, it's still about the grape," Brenner rationalizes.
"Life is a journey," the author adds.
"Enjoy it ... one sip at a time."
Sandy Thorn Clark is a local free-lance writer.