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Bruno's quick bites

September 5, 2008

Recently reviewed restaurants by dining critic Pat Bruno. (Star ratings: 4 starsExtraordinary;3 stars Excellent; 2 stars Very Good; 1 star Good; Zero stars: Poor)

Piccolo Sogno, 464 N. Halsted; (312) 421-0077. Impressive Italian menu fashioned by chef Tony Priolo along with partner Ciro Longobardo. Overall, the quality is there, the flavors are fine and the selection is molto buono. Try the burrata, fiori di zucca (zucchini flowers), penne arrabiatta, Margherita pizza, whole wood-fired fish and panna cotta. 2 and a half stars (Reviewed Aug. 29)

Hema's Kitchen, 2411 N. Clark; (773) 529-1705. With a menu broad enough to please any lover of classical Indian food, Hema's offers selection (85 dishes), vegetarian choices (25 dishes) and, most important, the understanding of what makes great-tasting Indian food -- spices. Owner/chef Hema Potla knows her Indian spices and uses them with abandon. Try the potato cutlets, chicken vindaloo, lamb biryani and mango kulfi. 1 and a halfstars (Reviewed Aug. 29)

Haussmann Brasserie, 305 N. Happ, Northfield; (847) 446-1133. French fare (with a tad of contemporary American blended in) that includes a lot of the usual suspects (onion soup, steak frites, plats du jour). The atmosphere is boring with bad (pancake house) lighting. Try the endive salad, French onion soup, steak frites, beef short ribs and profiteroles. 1 and a halfstars (Reviewed Aug. 22)

Mana Food Bar, 1742 W. Division; (773) 342-1742. Creative vegetarian fare in a casual setting with two booths, two tables and a dozen seats at the food bar. There is a walk-up takeout window (and outdoor seating when the weather permits). Eclectic selection of beverages -- sake, sake cocktails, wine, smoothies and fresh juices. Try the hummus, pho, spanakopita, dengaku, Mana slider and banana walnut cake. 2 stars (Reviewed Aug. 22)

Morton's the Steakhouse, 1751 Freedom Drive, Naperville; (630) 577-1372. A steakhouse that was born in Chicago and has spread worldwide. Airy, open dining rooms with tables nicely spaced. A fine place for a celebration (birthday, anniversary) if your budget allows. Try the colossal shrimp Alexander, prime rib, surf and turf, Alaskan king crab legs, carrot cake and upside-down apple pie. 2 and a half stars (Reviewed Aug. 15)

Hub 51, 51 W. Hubbard; (312) 828-0051. Eclectic and interesting contemporary American comfort food. R.J. and Jerrod Melman, sons of head Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises guy Richard Melman, are doing their own thing at the smart new restaurant, which is a fun place to be. Try the grilled halibut taco, guacamole, egg salad, nachos, charred sake salmon, braised short ribs, carrot cake and chocolate cake. 3 stars(Reviewed Aug. 15)

Trattoria 225, 225 Harrison, Oak Park; (708) 358-8555. Owners Craig and Liz Charlton have fashioned an interesting menu that has everything from Mediterranean olives to a Kobe beef burger. In between, you will find grilled octopus, salads, some pasta dishes and several "main course" choices (one each fish, steak, lamb, chicken), plus daily specials. But what this restaurant is mostly about is its wood-fired pizzas and a casual good time in a roomy warehouse/loft atmosphere. Try the grilled Caesar, sausage pizza, white clam pizza, orecchiette with sausage and apple crostada.2 stars (Reviewed Aug. 8)

Bistro Pacific, 680 N. Lake Shore; (312) 397-1800. The menu really covers a lot of geography: Japanese (there's a sushi bar), regional Chinese and Korean (bi bim bop). Bistro Pacific won't disappoint those who enjoy the variety that a pan-Asian menu offers. Try the California maki, Peking duck soong, kung pao chicken and green tea ice cream.1 and a halfstars (Reviewed Aug. 8)

Perennial, 1800 N. Lincoln; (312) 981-7070. There is a lot of talent behind the scenes at Perennial, but I fear the menu was created by committee, which often leads to complexity and banality. There was plenty of enjoyment to be had, but not enough to make me want to run back and sample more dishes. Try the "Wings & Beer," roasted half chicken, New York strip, sea scallops, mac and cheese, and cheesecake. 1 and a halfstars(Reviewed Aug. 1)

Bistrot Zinc, 1131 N. State; (312) 337-1131. Bistrot Zinc is classic bistro in just about every sense of the word: menu, atmosphere, consistently good food, comfort, very French wine list. Try the escargots, assiette de charcuterie, steak frites, vol-au-vent and chocolate cake. 2 and a half stars (Reviewed Aug. 1)

C-House, 166 E. Superior, Affinia Hotel; (312) 523-0923. Celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson's new restaurant has plenty of room for improvement. The food was good, but there wasn't a lot that rocked my world. The atmosphere is elegantly casual. Try the fish tacos, arugula risotto, oysters, salmon pastrami sandwich and mini-brownies. 1 and a halfstars (Reviewed July 25)

Nacional 27, 325 W. Huron; (312) 664-2727. Nuevo Latino fare served in a plush nightclub setting. Lively, vibrant. On Friday and Saturday nights, centerstage tables give way to a dance floor (DJs spin mostly salsa and merengue). Live jazz and tapas Tuesdays (first and third Tuesdays) with tapas tastings ($9.95 per person). Try the seviche assortment, tacos, citrus chicken Milenesa and cuatro chocolates. 2 stars(Reviewed July 18)

E-mail brunoeats@aol.com