Taste of Naples in Chicago

You don't have to fly to Southern Italy to try authentic Neapolitan food.

In fact, the Neapolitan crust is better and puffier at Coalfire Pizza, 1321 W. Grand, (312 226-2625) than the crispy black crust I had at the legendary Pizzeria Da Michele parlor in Naples. Just like in Naples, the pie is baked in a big oven fired by coal. The rapid fire explains why the crust doesn't have time to dry out. The Coalfire crust is thin and, just like Pizzeria Da Michele, they don't gussy up their pizza with lots of toppings. Details at www.coalfirechicago.com.

Spacca Napoli Pizzeria, 1769 Sunnyside (773-878-2420) is also inspired by the passionate Naples vibe, taking its name from the old quarter in central Naples. Their pizza sometimes overstates the value of basil and I prefer the neighborhood atmosphere of Coalfire over the upscale environment at Spacca Napoli. (Details: www.spacca napolipizzeria.com) But points go to Spacca Napoli for an ambitious drink menu that includes vintage limoncello and grappa. Coalfire is BYOB through Friday; after that only beer and wine will be served.

And if you're on the search for immaculate homemade spaghetti and meatballs go no farther than La Scarola, 721 W. Grand (312) 243-1740, www.lascarola.com. Sun-Times food critic Pat Bruno has pointed out that the roots of this dish are in Naples, but not of Naples. According to Bruno, spaghetti and meatballs evolved from two specialties of Naples: pommarola, the legendary Neapolitan tomato sauce, and polpette di carne, meatballs in tomato sauce. While I am a regular at La Scarola, Bruno also recommends the spaghetti and meatballs at the hideaway Gioacchino's Ristorante, 5201 St. Charles Rd. in Bellwood (708-544-0380).

Dave Hoekstra