Leave summer behind with tour of autumn foliage
BY BRIAN E. CLARK
Protected by the warming waters of Lake Michigan, the hardwoods of Door County, Wis., make for
a colorful autumn drive.
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EGG HARBOR, Wis. -- I love summer as much as the next guy, but I also like the changing of the seasons. And after a string of muggy days in the 90s, I'm ready for crisp fall temperatures, football and brilliant autumn leaves.
The Midwest has plenty of good places to go leaf-peeping, from the Northwoods of Wisconsin to the hills along the Mississippi near Dubuque, Iowa, and the picturesque terrain around Traverse City, Mich.
Here are a few worthy fall color drives, starting in the north -- where the leaves first turn red, orange, bronze and gold -- and moving south.
Bayfield County, Wis.
Bayfield County in the northwest corner of the Badger State is home to the hamlets of Ashland and Bayfield. Vibrant autumn colors bracket the views along a Bayfield Peninsula tour.
Start in Ashland at the Northern Great Lakes Visitors Center, where you'll find exhibits detailing the region's history and culture.
Next, head north along the shore of Lake Superior to Bayfield, a cool harbor town that's the gateway to the Apostle Islands. These 21 gem-like coastal islands and 12 miles of mainland feature half a dozen scenic lighthouses. You can take a ferry from here to Madeline Island and the Big Bay State Park.
North of Bayfield, Highway 13 goes west and parallels Lake Superior's southern shore for 40 miles to the 47,000-acre Brule River State Forest, where the red maple, sugar maple (Wisconsin's state tree) and aspen should be exploding with color by late September and into October.
More info: (800) 472-6338, bayfieldcounty.org.
Door County, Wis.
Door County, in northeast Wisconsin, is a winner every season. Protected by the warming waters of Lake Michigan, its hardwoods make for a colorful autumn drive.
A great tour goes along the west shore of the peninsula some 75 miles from Kewaunee to Gills Rock at the tip of the county, passing through the towns of Sister Bay, Egg Harbor and Fish Creek.
Then, head down the less populated and more rugged Lake Michigan side of the finger. Along the way, you'll enjoy bluff-top views of the lake and four popular Wisconsin state parks -- Potowatami, Peninsula, Newport and Whitefish Dunes -- seven lighthouses and apple orchards ablaze in color.
More info: (800) 527-3529, doorcounty.com.
Hayward Lakes, Wis.
Hayward Lakes, in the northern reaches of Wisconsin, has no less than six outstanding autumn color tours in Sawyer County, ranging from 45 to 70 miles long. Most go through portions of the Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest, the Lac Courte Oreilles Indian Reservation or the Blue Hills, and they're brimming with vibrant leaves. All of the routes are well marked with a distinctive leaf design.
More info: (800) 724-2992, haywardlakes.com.
To get updates on Wisconsin's changing colors, check out the website travelwiscon sin.com/fallcolor_report.aspx.
Old Mission Peninsula, Mich.
Old Mission Peninsula on the northwest side of the Michigan mitten juts into Grand Traverse Bay and offers a patchwork of orchards, vineyards and forests turning a riot of color each autumn. The peninsula is nearly 20 miles long, and in some spots it's barely a mile wide.
It's an ideal locale for a drive that combines splendid views of the changing seasons with lovely vistas of the bay, stops at roadside fruit stands and visits to wineries and villages with charming restaurants.
Heading north, you'll see both East and West Traverse bays from a spectacular viewpoint near the Chateau Grand Traverse Winery on Center Road (M-37). On the way south, be sure to hop on Peninsula Drive, which offers wonderful views of isolated Power Island, Neahtawanta Point and the distant hills of Leelanau Peninsula.
More info: (800) 872-8377, visittraversecity.com.
Duluth, Minn.
Edge of the Wilderness Scenic Byway northwest of Duluth has aspen and birch that display brilliant yellows and golds, crimson maples, red sugar maples and pines. The best way to see this bouquet of color is to go north on the rolling Highway 38 out of Grand Rapids.
Stop at the visitors center in Marcell for maps and information. This 90-mile loop makes for a great day trip with stops in Scenic State Park, where you can see eagles and migrating waterfowl. You'll find plenty of spots ideal for a picnic, hike or photos of the fall colors.
More info: (888) 754-0011, scenicbyway.com.
Get details on foliage in other parts of the state at the website exploreminnesota.com.
Dubuque, Iowa
Dubuque boasts steep, khaki-colored limestone bluffs, forested hills bathed in autumn splendor and the mighty Mississippi flowing down below. No wonder many people consider this one of the loveliest corners of Iowa.
The best place to view the surrounding scenery -- as well as the General Zebulon Pike Lock and Dam No. 11 on the river below -- is from Eagle Point Park in Dubuque.
Another chance to see the changing colors of Iowa, Wisconsin and Illinois is aboard the Fenelon Place Elevator, the world's steepest and shortest railway at 296 feet long.
Or take one of Dubuque's two excursion boats along the Mississippi, both of which depart from Ice Harbor on Fourth Street. The Spirit of Dubuque is Iowa's only authentic paddle wheeler, while the Miss Dubuque is a modern yacht.
The region is full of rolling byways ideal for soaking up fall hues. One of the best routes is the Great River Road north through Balltown, Guttenberg, McGregor and Marquette.
More info: (800) 798-4748, dubuquechamber.com.
Rock River region, Illinois
For stellar views of vibrant foliage along the Rock River in northwest Illinois, start in the town of Grand Detour and head north, stopping in Lowden State Park for a hike. Then backtrack through Oregon to White Pines Forest State Park, boasting 120-foot-tall bluffs.
Then head west to Savanna, where the Plum River enters the Mississippi. For some splendid views of the big river, drive north on Highway 84 to Palisades State Park. From there, continue northeast a few miles more to Galena for another helping of changing colors.
More info: (877) 464-2536, galena.org.
Northern Indiana
Autumn leaf aficionados would do well to take U.S. 12 off Interstate 94, not far from the entrance to Indiana Dunes State Park. This tree-covered route passes by several beach towns, such as Beverly Shores. Also along the route is the massive sand dune Mount Baldy.
In Michigan City, head east toward South Bend. Along the way, you'll pass Rolling Prairie, where Oprah once had a country house. Enjoy rolling farmland on the way to New Carlisle, a quaint community home to Moser's Austrian Cafe.
For explosive fall colors and Victorian Gothic architecture, be sure to drop by the University of Notre Dame campus. East of South Bend, drive through the heart of Amish Country. Das Dutchman Essenhaus in Middlebury is famous for its home-cooked meals and freshly baked pies.
More info: (800) 677-9800, visitindiana.com.
Brian Clark is a Madison, Wis.-based free-lance writer.










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