Iguazu National Park, Argentina: Falling for Iguazu
SOUTH AMERICA | Beauty, adventure, awe on border of Brazil, Argentina
IGUAZU NATIONAL PARK, Argentina -- Water cascaded over the rock's edge like a bridal veil, and I leaned forward to take in the mist.
After trekking in the 90-degree heat in this South American jungle, I climbed into a Zodiac inflatable boat able to dart in and out of small waterfalls -- and leave its passengers sopping wet.
(AP)
WHEN TO GO: Best time to visit is October through March.
WHERE TO STAY: Nightly rates at Iguazu Grand Hotel Resort & Casino in Puerto Iguazu start at $325, including breakfast and spa access. A 21 percent VAT tax is additional; www.casino iguazu.com. Also nearby is the Panoramic Hotel where rooms start at $209, not including 21 percent VAT tax; www.panoramic hoteliguazu.com.
VISITING THE FALLS: Give yourself an entire day on the Argentine side of Iguazu Falls, which are a roughly 15-minute drive from Puerto Iguazu. You can book a bus or taxi through your hotel. Boat rides and jungle excursions can be booked ahead of time or inside the national park through Iguazu Jungle Explorer; www.iguazujunglex plorer.com.
If you have a couple days, take a fun side trip to nearby Iguazu Forest, where you can rappel down a short waterfall and zip line through the jungle. Aguas Grandes Tourism offers an adventure travel package; www.iguazuforest.com.
To visit the Brazilian side of the falls, U.S. citizens need to buy a $130 tourist visa. It's best to get it ahead of time through a Brazillian consulate in the U.S. It's possible to obtain one in Puerto Iguazu, but this could eat up a precious day's vacation. (I've known some travelers who bypassed the visa requirement by hiring taxis, instead of joining tour buses, and passed the border with ease.)
On the Brazilian side, check out Foz's Tropicana Bird Park (www.parquedasaves.com.br) just across from the falls entrance. For a $12 entry fee, you can get within inches of some of the most exotic bird species on earth.
The sun seared, the mist cooled, and our boat lingered for a few peaceful moments near the sheet of water.
Then we plunged underneath.
The force coming off this small gusher was so strong, it jerked back my outstretched hands. I was afraid to open my eyes.
The exhilarating experience helped me understand the sheer power and magnificence of what I had seen earlier in the same park. Deeper in the lush landscape lies the heart of Iguazu Falls: a spectacular cavalcade of cascades pouring over the border of Argentina and Brazil. The falls are taller and wider than Niagara, with 275 cascades spread over nearly two miles.
Both Argentina and Brazil offer distinctive vistas of the impressive water display.
The star of the show on the Argentine side is the jaw-dropping Garganta del Diablo, or Devil's Throat, where water thunders over a sheer drop. A train ride followed by a hike over a series of catwalks brings you to a vantage point where you get an up-close view from the top, as if you're staring down the waterfall's throat.
Iguazu Falls is beautiful anytime of the year, but our winter is the Southern Hemisphere's summer. So my February visit meant I could shed my snow boots in Chicago and slip into sandals to enjoy an interesting mix of tropical jungle vines and palm trees.
Home base was low-key Puerto Iguazu, Argentina. The quaint, tropical town is dotted with palm trees and hotels with big pools. It remains largely underdeveloped, but you'll find some good shopping and restaurants. And it's safe to walk around at night.
A good spot to be at sunset is a scenic lookout point on the west side of town called Tres Fronteras, or three borders. You'll see the confluence of the Parana and Iguazu rivers, along with the borders of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay.
My hotel, the Iguazu Grand Hotel Resort Casino, was a little livelier at night than most, thanks to its casino and tango shows.
From the hotel it's just a five-minute walk to the Brazilian border and a few miles to the falls.
Getting into Brazil isn't easy these days. Tightened travel requirements for U.S. citizens means you'll need to do a little advance planning -- and shell out some extra cash for a visa, which cost me $130. You'll have to stop at a border checkpoint to get your papers checked.
But the extra time and money is worth it. Brazil's view is nothing short of breathtaking. In stunning panorama, waterfalls dance and rainbows crisscross as the spray of the falls bounces off the rocks below.
While the Argentine side gave us a view from the top, it's the Brazilian side that really lets you take in the entirety of the cascades.
I wandered around half-dazed, feeling like I'd walked into some kind of heaven. Most people here seemed to be experiencing the same euphoria. Everyone was smiling.
Just when I thought the scenery couldn't get any better, I looked up to see a flock of toucans fly overhead.
Even after thoroughly soaking up the view, I finished the tour in Brazil in just two hours. That was good news because there was still one more thing I craved before heading to the urban confines of Buenos Aires: a jungle adventure.
The Iguazu Grand Hotel quickly arranged an afternoon of "wet" rappelling and zip lining in the nearby Iguazu forest.
Having never rappelled before, the short course -- which would send me 45 feet down a small cascade -- was perfect for this beginner. I had so much fun the first time, I did it again.
An all-terrain vehicle whisked me to another part of the jungle, where I climbed one of the tallest trees I've ever seen, latched my harness onto a hook and tore over the top branches on a zip line.
After getting all that adventure out of my system, I was ready to relax.
I found myself back at the water again -- only this time, sipping a cold caipirinha under the towering palms of my hotel pool.