Climbing 101
Find a rock climbing route
Cedar Bluff is a worthwhile stop if you're already heading to Draper's Bluff, located just on the other side of Cedar Grove Road, especially if you're a beginner—there's easy access to top-rope at most climbs. The trails range in difficulty from easy to hard and can accommodate sport climbing, trad, top-roping and a bit of bouldering. No camping, but the facilities at Ferne Clyffe State Park are available for a small fee.
The climbs at Draper's Bluff span all difficulty levels and include traditional and sport climbs with heights up to 120 feet, along with bouldering. The majority of climbs are found on the south face, whose sun-filled exposure makes for great (and slightly warmer) climbs in early and late fall. Located less than 30 minutes from Jackson Falls, there's no camping on site (it's mostly located on privately-owned land; donations are suggested at the kiosk in the parking lot), but tent sites and showers are available at nearby Ferne Clyffe State Park for a small fee.
There are only about 10 trails at Ferne Clyffe, at 50 to 60 feet in height and ranging from easy to moderate difficulty, but its close proximity to Cedar Bluff, Draper's Bluff and Jackson Falls makes it a worthwhile stop. Climbing and bouldering is restricted to one bluff. Camping is available for a small fee, and RV hookups are in place. Outhouses and a shower house are both available with no extra fee.
The Online Climbing guide calls Jackson Falls "as close to world-class as the Midwest is going to get," with some of the best sport climbing in Illinois (more than one hundred of which are catalogued here). Climbs average 60 feet in height, and there are trails for bouldering as well. It takes a little more than five hours to get to this Southern Illinois spot (about 20 miles southeast of Marion, IL, off US 45), which makes the free camping a nice perk: Visitors are even allowed to camp in the canyon as long as they don't make new fire pits. There's an outhouse, but no water supply on the entire grounds.
A solid choice for a day trip, the 15 or so climbs range from easy to expert along the bluffs at this state park. There are some fragile and/or restricted areas, so it's best to take precaution, and trails are closed during the park's three-day deer hunting season. It takes less than three hours to get to the park by car from Chicago. Since campsites are in high demand, it may be difficult to snag one. Running water and toilet facilities are available to all visitors.
The 30-some sport climbs at Unlikely Wall are the most notable in the state of Indiana (though that's a relative honor). Most of the climbs are on the easy side, but the 25-foot boulder problem snags most. It's best to day trip it to Bloomington, since the drive is only about three-and-a-half hours, and camping is not available.
A nearly seven-hour trip to Kentucky may sound like a bit of a haul, but Red River's 1500+ routes (which run the full spectrum from very easy to very challenging) make this a prime weekend destination. There are often trail closures, so it's best to check before showing up; spring and fall are peaks times, as summers can be hot and muggy. Camping is accessible all around the park, and cabins are also available. Slade is located in a dry county, but there is a beer trailer just past Torrent Falls, on the other side of the county border.
The 1,600 routes documented in Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake make this the best-known destination for climbers from all over the Midwest. An equal-opportunity stop, climbs run from easy to hard; most of the trails are for trad, with a few for bouldering. Unlike most sites around the Midwest, which have sandstone walls, Devil's Lake is full of purple quartzite, which fractures cleanly and leaves a smooth, shiny surface. The park is only about three-and-a-half hours from Chicago, but given the extensive amount of trails, a day trip may not be realistic. Paid camping is available all around the park, and the ranger's station has a water source.
Grandad's Bluff, which was mentioned in Mark Twain's Life on the Mississippi is hard to miss: The tallest bluff is 600 feet tall and has a big flag on top of it. The sport routes here are of average difficulty, making this a better destination to visit if you already happen to be in the area. The sandstone is fairly brittle, meaning it's easy to break holds when the rock is wet. A four-hour drive from Chicago and absence of camping are two more reasons to include this destination in an already-planned jaunt around the Midwest.
Among the more-visited state parks for climbing in Wisconsin, its 20+ climbs are among the steepest in the Midwest. Note: No climbing is allowed on Saturday or after noon on Friday and Sunday, year-round. It takes more than six hours by car to get to Willow River from Chicago, so setting up camp is a must. Sites are available all over the park, and can be reserved in advance online.








