Bounty of the season's perfect for chilled soups
AT THE CHEF'S TABLE
For Chicagoans, soup often conjures thoughts of wool sweaters and falling leaves, but for me, soup is a summertime staple.
In my native France, ingredients often are more important than technique. Therefore, in the late summer months when just-harvested vegetables and fully ripe fruits are at their peak, there is nothing that shows off their purity and essence more than a refreshing chilled soup.
At home and on my menus at NoMI, I tend to favor lighter soups. The rich taste and texture of produce used in a chilled soup is a mouth-watering alternative to a salad and perfect for al fresco dining. I also like to take advantage of not toiling over a hot stove and the ease of just throwing a few ingredients into the blender.
The other wonderful benefit of chilled soup is its versatility. A simple soup is deceptively easy, but it can be presented in different variations that are perfect for a light lunch with friends in the garden or as the starter course for an elegant dinner party.
One of my favorite chilled soups uses cucumbers as a base. Their decisive flavor and light sweetness meld perfectly with the acidity of lemon juice and vinegar to brighten the taste.
For home chefs, a cucumber gazpacho is a great fundamental recipe that can be dressed up for a variety of occasions by layering in different flavors for more elaborate creations. A succulent crab salad and its complex flavor and texture are a mouth-watering accompaniment to a chilled soup and elevate it from a starter into an entree. To make the dish even more luxurious, it can be dressed up with crab salad and a dollop of caviar and creme fraiche.
From simple to sublime, chilled soups are an easy way of expanding a summer recipe repertoire.
Christophe David is executive chef at NoMi in the Park Hyatt, 800 N. Michigan.