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Going to bat for charity

CROSSTOWN CLASSIC | Menu fueled by baseball rivalry to help kids

June 25, 2008

Chefs Kevin Hickey and Carrie Nahabedian are good buddies, to the point that Hickey flew to New York to be Nahabedian's "lucky charm" when she was up for the James Beard Best Chef Great Lakes -- which she won -- on June 8.

Though the Chicago natives hone their culinary skills only blocks from each other -- Hickey is executive chef of Four Seasons Chicago, 120 E. Delaware Pl.; Nahabedian is chef at Naha, 500 N. Clark -- and might be viewed in Chicago restaurant circles as competitors, they are friends first and foremost.

Except when it comes to that rivalry that divides much of Chicago: baseball.

Hickey, who shares his name with a former White Sox pitcher, is a staunch Sox supporter; Nahabedian bleeds Cubbie blue and red.

Despite a constant barrage of pitching baseball-related barbs at each other, the kitchen wizards -- both giddy with their favorite team's early-season success -- decided to temporarily bench their team allegiances for a greater cause: the second Crosstown Culinary Classic, a four-course baseball-themed dinner and silent auction at 6:30 p.m. Friday. The event will be held at Seasons restaurant to benefit Common Threads, a Chicago not-for-profit with a mission to educate children on the importance of nutrition and physical well-being and to foster an appreciation of cultural diversity through cooking.

Last year's first Crosstown Classic, the brainchild of Four Seasons Chicago public relations director Terri Hickey (no relation to Kevin), raised $20,000 for Common Threads. Cubs fanatic Paul Kahan, executive chef of Avec, "battled" Chef Hickey, who has dropped 90 pounds in the past 12 months.

This year's event -- emceed by Jim Rose of WLS-Channel 7 -- will include taped messages from Sox and Cubs players, live kitchen action shown on flat-screen televisions and a silent auction for autographed baseball memorabilia and baseball-themed getaways.

For Nahabedian, the Crosstown Classic will be a homecoming of sorts. She was a sous chef when Four Seasons Chicago opened in 1989. Later, as executive chef of Four Seasons Los Angeles, Nahabedian hired Hickey as a sous chef. The two, who worked together four years, attended Dodgers games together.

When you say "play ball" to either Hickey or Nahabedian, the results are a foodie's dream come true.

Hickey, wearing a black and white Sox cap, will step to the plate with an entree of Grilled Rack Lamb and Sausage, Eggplant Caviar, Mediterranean Yogurt and Sweet Corn Panisse. Nahabedian, wearing a Cubs floppy hat and a chef's shirt emblazoned with a Cubs logo, will try to steal bases with Wild Alaskan Copper River Sockeye Salmon with a Cannelloni of English Peas, Pea Tendrils, Morels, "Frothy" Mushroom Broth and Shaved Black Truffles.

For a ballpark reception preceding dinner, Nahabedian will create Tobacco Leaf-Smoked Carolina Pulled Pork sandwiches ("Baseball is about Iowa, minor league teams, pork") and Beef Burgers with Proscuitto and Goat Cheese. Hickey will serve up Chicago-style Kobe Beef "Hot Dogs," Nachos, Truffled Cheese Fries, and Soft Shell Crab Sliders. He hopes to score a home run with his own condiments: Balsamic Ketchup, Beer Mustard and Pickle Relish.

Four Seasons pastry chef Scott Gerken and Naha pastry chef Craig Harzewski are creating novelty desserts for the Bleacher Sweets Reception including Popcorn, Salted Cashews and Sweet Ice Cream, Lambic beer "floats," chocolate "malteds," cotton candy and funnel cakes.

Ironically, baseball also played a role in the biggest disagreement the two buddies have ever had. Nahabedian accuses Hickey of not returning her "Bull Durham" DVD. "Not true," states Hickey emphatically. "I'd have no reason to keep it -- I can't stand Kevin Costner."

When Nahabedian scrunches her face in mock disgust, Hickey retorts, "I'm just saying Kevin Costner's no Bobby Jenks."

"And Bobby Jenks is no Kevin Costner," she trumps.

Batter up.

Sandy Thorn Clark is a local free-lance writer.