Pat Bruno in 2003. | Sun-Times Media file photo
Updated: December 2, 2012 2:09PM
A four-star rating from Pat Bruno was a rare event. I can recall only five such hallmarks, several of which transpired during my tenure as his editor at the Sun-Times. These included Tru on North St. Clair, Everest on South LaSalle, Tallgrass in Lockport, Ambria on North LincolnPark, and in his final pick for Restaurant of the Year, NoMi at the Park Hyatt Hotel, in 2010.
Describing Ambria in 1999, Mr. Bruno wrote in his inimitable manner: “My love affair with Ambria goes back some 20 years, just about as long as the restaurant has been open. I have had spectacular meals at Ambria and I have had great meals at Ambria. In other words, never has the restaurant let me down or disappointed me. There is a sense of purpose that transcends the commonplace, a direction that suggests reaching to the highest level, without overreaching. Dining there is like wrapping yourself in a warmly inviting culinary quilt.”