Devon

Are you hankering for the sights, smells and tastes of the Indian subcontinent but unwilling to pay the $1,400 airfare to get to New Delhi? Board the CTA's No. 49B bus and hop off at Western and Devon avenues. There, you'll find the one of the largest South Asian communities in the United States, in an easy-to-navigate slice of West Rogers Park.

Tiffin
2536 W. Devon
(773) 338-2143

It would take weeks to sample each of the dizzying array of restaurants, from fine dining establishments to hole-in-the-wall snack shops. For the uninitiated, an Indian lunch buffet is a great way to sample a wide variety of dishes.

One of the classier eateries, Tiffin offers a buffet lunch for $7.95 on weekdays and $9.95 on weekends that features rotating items such as chicken makhani (chicken in creamy sauce), mixed vegetable curry, saag paneer (spinach and cottage cheese dish) and more.

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday-Sunday; buffet lunch served 11:30 a.m-3 p.m. weekdays and 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. weekends.

Indian Garden
2546 W. Devon
(773) 338-2929

This clean, tastefully decorated place has a changing $8.95 buffet that offers items such as dhosas, curries and lentil dishes; warm naan and sizzling tandoori chicken are brought to the table.

Hours: Buffet lunch served 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily; dinner, 5-10 p.m. daily.

Sabri Nehari
2511 W. Devon
(773) 465-3272

For a tasty introduction to Pakistani food, head to this neighborhood institution, which has served dishes like curried beef and Afghan chicken for the past nine years. Dinner will set you back only about $12 or $13, including beverage. But be advised: there's no alcohol at this place, not even B.Y.O.B.

Hours: Noon-midnight daily.

Taj Sari Palace
2553 W. Devon
(773) 338-0177

There's plenty of people-watching on Devon, from women in flowing silk saris to Muslim men wearing skull caps. To get your own ethnic garb -- or just browse through the fanciful fabrics -- check out this colorful shop. For a less expensive souvenir, buy a stack of bangle bracelets: a dozen for just $6.

Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. daily except Tuesday, noon-7 p.m.

Indian Bookhouse & Journals
2551 W. Devon
(773) 764-6567

Want to take home a piece of Devon? This 13-year-old shop sells a variety of books, from yoga primers to Indian cookbooks, plus Indian newspapers, magazines and music CDs. Try a Bollywood DVD -- and remember, the more extravagant the musical numbers, the better!

Hours: Noon-9 p.m. daily; closed on Tuesdays.

Patel Brothers
2610 W. Devon
(773) 262-7777

Stretch your culinary boundaries at this bright, clean market where you can browse long aisles filled with huge containers of spices, flours, lentils and basmati rice while Indian pop music blares in the background.

Hours: 8:30 a.m-8:30 p.m. daily.

Russian Books & Souvenirs
2746 W. Devon
(773) 761-3233

Devon Avenue wasn't always an Indian-Pakistani enclave, and its former incarnation as a Jewish neighborhood remains near its intersection with Sacramento, where Jewish businesses and religious institutions continue to operate. This unique, 15-year-old Russian shop straddles the border of the two cultures, offering a wide variety of books, magazines, CDs and DVDs in both English and Russian, as well as Russian children's games, nesting dolls, teapots, artwork, hats, greeting cards and more.

Hours: 11 a.m.-7 p.m. daily.

Tahoora Sweets & Bakery
2345 W. Devon
(773) 743-7272

Wind up your tour by heading east on Devon across Western Avenue to the immaculately clean Tahoora, where South Asian sweets that look almost too beautiful to eat in shades of white, yellow, hot pink and bright green fill long bakery cases. Judging by the giggles of the Indian toddlers one recent weekday, this is the place to go when you've been good.

Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m. daily.