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Bronzeville

January 20, 2006

A word to the wise: Experience Bronzeville now before it becomes overwrought with tourists, traffic and businesses through revitalization. Dubbed the Black Metropolis, it's an area where African Americans from the rural South migrated North in the early-to-mid 20th century and flooded Chicago's South Side with strong churches and clubs, retail shops, music and publications. Its glory had waned but it's waxing these days with a new generation of restaurants, cafes, art galleries and public art invigorating the neighborhood. We focus on a stretch along Martin Luther King Drive, between 24th and 35th Streets, where a visual feast occurs every step. In the coming weeks, we will highlight more haunts creating a new metropolis.

OPEN DISPLAY

Public Art
King Drive, from 24th to 35th streets

How many zoom under the overpass of I-55 South on Martin Luther King Drive and don't notice the ornate art panels flanking the street? Or glance briefly at the shingled man facing the north with a string-tied suitcase in tow while on the No. 3 bus? Or walk over bronze plaques embedded in the sidewalks, highlighting famous Bronzeville residents? Stop and look. These and more tell of the area's rich history. If you get tired of walking, take a rest on any number of the sculptural benches -- one resembling broccoli heads -- and absorb your surroundings. A favorite site: The granite and bronze Victory Monument commemorating World War I African-American veterans at 35th Street and King Drive.

HISTORY STOP

Griffin Funeral Home Ltd.
3232 S. King.

Not many folks are keen about visiting a funeral home. But this one's worth eyeing for its displays of Confederate and Union memorabilia housed in a case on the parking lot. The funeral home is on the property where Camp Douglas was located, a Union prisoner of war camp for Confederate soldiers. More than 6,000 Confederate soldiers reportedly died there because of poor conditions, torture, and lack of care, making it one of the worst (and little talked about) prisoner of war camps of the war. Note: On Saturday at 4 p.m., the History Channel is presenting "To the Victor, Belongs the Silence," a documentary exploring the wholesale annihilation of Confederate prisoners at Camp Douglas.

ART FOR ALL

Neleh Artistic Expressions
Lake Meadows Shopping Center
3467 S. King
(312) 225-5692

A hodgepodge of African-American art, figurines, books and greeting cards make this a one-stop place to find, well, artistic expressions. You can even get your finds framed there, too. Owner Helen Y. West finds her mission twofold: to support emerging artists and to make art accessible to everyone. She has something for everyone, whether it's a $10 poster of Duke Ellington or a $3,500 painting by Chicago artist Dayo Laoye. She even features young talent from area high schools. "There are no shortage of artists but a shortage of venues," she says. In February, she's mounting "Art Mentors in the Community," where Chicago artists will feature up-and-coming talent. Check it out Feb. 1 to March 4.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday

SENATOR AT REST

Stephen A. Douglas Tomb
35th Street and Cottage Grove Avenue

A quick turn east off King Drive to East 35th leads to this monument, where Sen. Stephen A. Douglas' life is featured. The statesman's estate, Oakenwald, is where his significance in the debate about slavery is clarified as well as his intentions for the 50-plus acre respite. A mansion, stables and gardens were to be constructed, but he stopped short and went with a simple cottage instead. His tomb rests on the cottage's site. A well-groomed lawn, shrubs and info panels makes this a restful place to soak up history.

Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday.

ARTISTS' HAVEN

Gallery Guichard
3521 S. King
(773) 373-8000

Fine art comes to Bronzeville through Gallery Guichard's doors. The three-story, 2,800 square foot space in the Liberty Life Center is overflowing with 125 works, including those of Andre Guichard, gallery curator and artist. Oil pastels, collages, acrylics, sculptures and lighting fixtures by black artists enhance the well-lit space, designed with artists in mind. The wooden staircases, crisp, white walls and peak-a-boo columns keep art enthusiasts engaged, along with jazzy music circulating throughout. The viewer can't help but think, "What piece will go on my wall?" Visit during African-American History Month and see its "Artist Invitational" exhibit. Opens Feb. 16.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday; noon to 4 p.m. Sunday.