Bridgeport

Bridgeport is surely one of the last vestiges of "real" Chicago, home to Richard J. Daley, the 11th Ward Democratic Organization, ethnic neighborhood churches and gritty, blue-collar reality. Enjoy unexpected delights and hidden pleasures in a neighborhood pocked with shuttered stores and factories but showing early signs of gentrification.

Polo Cafe and Catering, 3322 S. Morgan
(773) 927-POLO (7656)
www.polocafe.com

An enchanting, eccentric jewel just steps away from the Zhou Brothers Art Foundation. The Polo Cafe is filled with reminders of Bridgeport's storied role in the Windy City's history, including portraits of the neighborhood's four native mayors -- Richard J. Daley, Michael Bilandic, Martin Kennelly and Edward Kelly. Polo's claim to fame is a spicy, kickin' Bloody Mary. Don't miss the Bloody Mary Brunch every Saturday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. If you're lucky, Mike the waiter will regale you with stories about the neighborhood's history, and chef/owner Dave Samber will give his dramatic performance of stirring organ music in the Old Eagle Private Room just off the kitchen.

Hours: 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday-Friday; 5-9 p.m. Friday-Saturday.

Picante Grill, 1626 S. Halsted
(312) 455-8500
www.picantegrill.net

Picante Grill's colorful, exotic Mexican artwork and comfortable booths and tables transport you to the heart of Mexico in an intimate environment. Lunch entrees include Doraditos, two crispy flute-shaped tacos filled with chicken or ground beef, topped with tomatillo sauce, sour cream, salsa roja and sprinkled with cheese for $6.95. Dinner choices range from appetizers Tostaditas Yucatecas (five tostaditas topped with chicken in achiote, onions, sour cream and sprinkled with cheese) for $6.50, to Milanesa Capitalina (beef tenderloin with ham and Chihuahua cheese) for $16.95.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Lunch menu served 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Gio's, 2724 S. Lowe
(312) 225-6368
www.gioscafe.com

A combination deli and cafe, this small eatery with red-and-white-checkered tablecloths features home-cooked Italian specialties such as cavatelli ($9.95), mostacciolli and broccoli ($8.95), and tortiglioni carbonara ($9.95) as well as appetizers, soups, salads and sandwiches.

Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Saturday; 2-9 p.m. Sunday.

Filbert's, 3430 S. Ashland
(773) 847-1520.

One of the few small, family-owned soda-pop bottling companies in the country, where creamy, old-style root beer is the hallmark, along with flavors such as black cherry and cream soda. Walk-ins are welcome to buy soda pop.

Hours: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday-Saturday.

Ramova Grill, 3510 S. Halsted
(773) 847-9058

A greasy spoon next to the shuttered Ramova Theater, this small diner's high-backed booths, 1940s-era decor and sassy waitress harken to authentic South Side Chicago. Breakfast is served all day, including steak and eggs for $6.10, a "Good Morning Special" of two wheat cakes, two eggs and two strips of bacon or sausage for $3.25, and corned beef hash and eggs for $4.95. The daily soup goes for 95 cents, and a pork-chop dinner costs $6.65.

Hours: 5:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; 5:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Saturday; 5:30 a.m. to noon Sunday.

Ace Bakeries, 3241 S. Halsted
(312) 225-4973
www.acebakeries.com

A marvel of decorative cakes, ranging from children's elaborately festooned birthday cakes to cakes featuring baby dolls for baby showers, plus a terrific assortment of wedding cakes, cake-toppers, and wedding-day cutlery. The bakery also features a large, mouth-watering array of in-store cakes, cookies, pastries, pies and breads.

Hours: 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday-Saturday.

Monastery of the Holy Cross Bed & Breakfast
3111 S. Aberdeen
(773) 927-7424, Ext. 203
www.chicagomonk.org

This bed-and-breakfast offers "silence in the city" in a private, seven-room loft apartment, including two bedrooms, a kitchenette and a study, in the midst of a late-19th century monastery. The monastery is run by Benedictine monks. The B&B boasts rave reviews for its piping-hot muffins and sourdough pancakes smothered in maple syrup.