Cortland Corridor

Who knew so much activity could exist on such a small street? But this stretch of Cortland, sheltered by the shadow of Saint Mary of the Angels' seventeen-story dome, holds just enough bars and restaurants to last a night or two. (Architecture buffs might want to check out the carefully restored, circa-1920s church, reportedly the largest Catholic church in Chicago.) As for the bars and restaurants, they're not fancy or super-trendy, just simple neighborhood places to relax and grab a bite or a drink. And how handy is it that the street has its own ATM?

Leopard Lounge
1645 W. Cortland
(773) 862-7877

The cheeky sign clues you in: This neighborhood lounge is all about the '50s, from the pinups on the wall to the black-and-white movies on the TVs. But the thoroughly modern martini list offers a dozen choices, ranging from the chocolate-spiked Cat Nap to the candified Peppermint Patty. Sofas, velvet chairs and a fireplace give it a cosy atmosphere, and the owner makes it a point to change the decor and lighting for every possible season and holiday. Aural delights include live jazz on Tuesday and every other Thursday and a jukebox for the other nights. Dress casual or dress up -- whatever you prefer.

Hours: 6 p.m.-2 a.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 5 p.m.-2 a.m. Friday; 6 p.m.-3 a.m. Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday.

Jane's
1655 W. Cortland
(773) 862-5263

If you've heard that Jane's is vegetarian heaven, you've heard wrong. The 36-seat cafe, located in a vintage Bucktown cottage, opened 10 years ago with a vegetarian skew, but a few years ago adopted a more omnivorous menu offering burgers, a chicken sandwich, seafood pasta, a vegan pasta and a veggie burrito. The place is better known for its California-heavy wine list; wines by the glass ($7 to $9) include seven reds and six whites. Want Sunday brunch? Show up at 1 or so to avoid the crowd clamoring for a seat at 11 a.m. (Here's a little secret: You can make Sunday brunch reservations.)

Hours: 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Sunday.

Riverside Deli
1656 W. Cortland
(773) 278-3354

Owner Mary Torres and her husband are of Latino descent, and that explains the multicultural menu of this breakfast-and-lunch spot, serving greater Bucktown for the last two decades. Lunch is particularly international, with 40 sandwiches ranging from a Cuban sub to a Caribbean steak sandwich to an Italian-flavored breaded chicken breast. Sundays, the overflow from Jane's heads to Riverside for a $12, all-you-can-eat brunch buffet; newbies stop and stare at the Twinkies and Ho-Hos on the sweets table. Kids are welcome, and so is cash, but credit cards and checks aren't accepted.

Hours: 7 a.m.-4 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday; closed Monday.

Bucktown Pub
1658 W. Cortland
(773) 394-9898

Does that bartender look a little pale? Don't worry, it's just the ghost rumored to haunt Bucktown Pub, a bar since, well, a long time ago. These days it's a neighborhood hangout complete with eclectic jukebox, pinball, bowling machines and Golden Tee; come summer there's a pool table out in the beer garden. Popcorn's the only food, but patrons enjoy it with 12 international beers on tap and another dozen in bottles. Open mike (acoustic, please!) starts at 10 p.m. Sunday, and if it's 10 p.m. on Tuesday, it's karaoke time. Bring Fido if you want, but he or she's got to leave at 7 p.m.

Hours: 3 p.m.-2 a.m. Sunday-Friday; 3 p.m.-3 a.m. Saturday.

Lottie's Pub
1925 W. Cortland
(773) 489-0738

Look for the corner bar with the black awning: Rumor says the circa-1934 bar once was a speakeasy and brothel owned by a hermaphrodite named Lottie. These days, it's a laid-back, inexpensive bar offering daily food specials, such as half-price quesadillas and chips-and-salsa on Fridays, 25-cent wings on Saturdays, and $4 Italian beef sandwiches on Sundays (sometimes). Choose from one of 24 beers on tap to go with.

Hours: 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Sunday- Friday; 11 a.m.-3 a.m. Saturday.