Trattoria Belluno came about when Licia and Perry Accardo decided to transform L'Appetito Italian deli in Glenview into a full-service restaurant after repeated requests from regular customers for an expanded menu. Not only did they expand the menu and go full service, they also did a nice job changing the look of the place. Out went the deli cases, the shelves of foodstuffs and the basic Italian deli look. In came a casual, comfortable trattoria atmosphere. I am happy to report that the great array of Italian cookies (best selection around) is still available, and those are great for taking home just in case a cookie attack hits.

It's a dicey proposition changing the concept in midstream: name change, customer confusion, that kind of thing. However, if filled seats are the measure of how it is working out, then the redo was seamless. And the impressive menu -- from zuppa to noce (on the cannoli) -- offers something for everybody.

It's a dicey proposition changing the concept in midstream: name change, customer confusion, that kind of thing. However, if filled seats are the measure of how it is working out, then the redo was seamless. And the impressive menu -- from zuppa to noce (on the cannoli) -- offers something for everybody.

Executive chef Sabrina Ball has partnered the usual suspects -- fried calamari, baked clams, spaghetti -- and assorted close friends (lasagne, risotto, veal, chicken) with a number of dishes that suggest the creative direction that Trattoria Belluno has decided to take. For example, portobello carpaccio. This was a dish where flavors were layered in delicious harmony, starting with a base of sliced portobello mushrooms, followed by a layer of melted Asiago cheese and then a drizzle of goat cheese cream. Once out of the oven, a stack of baby greens was centered on the plate. The meaty and earthy mushrooms balanced nicely with the mildly sharp cheeses, while the greens added a finesse of texture.

Executive chef Sabrina Ball has partnered the usual suspects -- fried calamari, baked clams, spaghetti -- and assorted close friends (lasagne, risotto, veal, chicken) with a number of dishes that suggest the creative direction that Trattoria Belluno has decided to take. For example, portobello carpaccio. This was a dish where flavors were layered in delicious harmony, starting with a base of sliced portobello mushrooms, followed by a layer of melted Asiago cheese and then a drizzle of goat cheese cream. Once out of the oven, a stack of baby greens was centered on the plate. The meaty and earthy mushrooms balanced nicely with the mildly sharp cheeses, while the greens added a finesse of texture.

Porchetta di Veneto was a robust entree in which slow-roasted medallions of pork tenderloin were draped with a pancetta and Asiago cream sauce. Escorts included smashed garlic potatoes, zucchini and squash. It was substantial and special.

I was quite pleased, too, with the fresh way in which the pollo piccata was put together. The seared chicken breast was plump, meaty and perfectly cooked. The chicken was set on a bed of al dente angel hair pasta, which was dressed with a fresh tomato, caper and lemon sauce. A substantial dish, but one that was light and refreshing.

Salmone alla Fiorentina kept the creative juices flowing. This was another entree where food flavors came at you in waves. Grilled wild Alaskan salmon rested on a bed of creamy polenta (outstanding texture and flavor), while up above, on top of the pristine salmon, was a portobello cream sauce and wisps of spinach.

And now some of those usual suspects. The bruschetta was decent, not great. I was not taken with the pesto sauce slathered over the toasted bread, or the balsamic reduction that was part of the dish. Calamari fritti was fine, the squid rings light and tender (would there had been more of the rings and less of the tentacles, however). And I would suggest that the lettuce garnish be removed; it does nothing for the dish.

Under the heading "Italian Specialties," the Homemade Meat Lasagna was quite good. Five layers of pasta were sandwiched with a delicious meat sauce and ricotta cheese. A cap of melted mozzarella finished it off nicely.

Lovers of pasta will relish the broad selection of classic sauces paired with the proper pasta, such as fettuccine Alfredo, penne alla vodka and spaghetti with marinara sauce (and delicious meatballs). Nice choices all, but the one pasta dish not too miss is orecchiette alla rapini e salsiccia. The fine combination of little ears of pasta mixed it up with sauteed broccoli rabe and crumbles of sweet Italian sausage, a hint of crushed red pepper, olive oil and garlic. It was quite special, indeed.

When it came to the cannoli, the ricotta filling was a cut above the usual.

Tiramisu arrived in an oversized martini glass. Filled to the brim with cream and mascarpone and a few espresso-soaked ladyfingers, this was one of the best versions of this overworked dessert I have had in quite some time.

Spumoni was the classic layered flavors of ice cream -- gianduia, pistachio, zuppa Inglese -- and perfect for a light ending.

Wrap up your meal with a cup of espresso made with rich and delicious Illy coffee.

Pat Bruno is a free-lance writer, critic and author. E-mail brunoeats@aol.com.

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