Bruno’s Quick Bites

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The tender lamb kebabs at Dawali Mediterranean Kitchen are marinated and charbroiled. | Jean Lachat~Sun-Times

Recently reviewed restaurants by dining critic Pat Bruno. (Star ratings: ★★★★ Extraordinary; ★★★ Excellent; ★★ Very Good; ★ Good; Zero stars: Poor)

The Bedford, 1612 W. Division; (773) 235-8800; bedfordchicago.com. The Bedford serves modern contemporary cuisine in what once was the lower level of a bank. The vault door and other bank fixtures are part of the restaurant decor, and the atmosphere is modern and quite nice. Can you bank on the food? Yes, but it’s not going to light up the night sky with culinary fireworks. Try the fava bean crostini, mussels, seasonal soup and pork chop. ★★ (Reviewed Aug. 5)

Porkchop, 941 W. Randolph; (312) 733-9333; porkchopchicago.com. Porkchop needs to live up to its name and come up with something more than a couple of pork-centric dishes, along with a menu that has more pizzazz. The atmosphere is urban do-over with brick walls and faux butcher shop blended with Kentucky still hut. Try the elotes and grilled pork chop. 1/2★ (Reviewed Aug. 5)

Perennial Virant, 1800 N. Lincoln; (312) 981-7070; perennialchicago.com. Chef Paul Virant (Vie in Western Springs) is serving up contemporary American cuisine with an emphasis on farm-to-table. Comfortable, casual atmosphere. Try the crispy Carnaroli rice, gnocchi, sockeye salmon, honey nougat glace (if available; the menu changes frequently). ★1/2 (Reviewed July 29)

Bridge House Tavern, 321 N. Clark; (312) 644-0283; bridgehousetavern.com. Head down from Clark Street to the riverside restaurant with great views of the skyline. The contemporary American cuisine is plagued with inconsistencies, though. Try the mussels, salmon BLT, tavern chicken and steak frites. ★ (Reviewed July 29)

South Branch Tavern Grille, 100 S. Wacker; (312) 546-6177; southbranchchicago.com. Located smack dab on the Chicago River, with dining both outside and inside, South Branch has a good vibe. The contemporary American cuisine (salads, sandwiches, burgers, wraps, eclectic entrees) has some surprisingly interesting and tasty moments, and the prices are reasonable. Try the “Black & Bleu Wedge” salad, fish tacos, burgers and pork chops. ★★ (Reviewed July 22)

Dawali Mediterranean Kitchen, 1625 N. Halsted; (312) 944-5800; dawalikitchen.com. This new and pleasing eatery has it together right from the start. The space is bright and pristine, with seating for about 60. The menu has just about every dish you could ask of a Middle Eastern restaurant. Try the salad sampler, appetizer sampler, lamb shish kebab, beef/lamb shawerma and baklava. ★1/2 (Reviewed July 22)

The Palm, 323 E. Wacker in the Swissotel Chicago; (312) 616-1000; thepalm.com. The Palm features big steaks, really big lobster and chop dishes, plus a few choices that pay homage to its Italian New York City roots, circa 1926. The caricatures of celebrities on the wall is a touch that makes the Palm rather special. Just as impressive as the atmosphere is the casual coolness of the food, whose consistency never falters. Try the fried calamari, lobster roll, lobster ravioli, steakburgers, bone-in ribeye and Key lime pie. ★★1/2 (Reviewed July 15)

Bice Ristorante, 10 E. Delaware in the Talbot Hotel; (312) 951-8900; chicago.bicegroup.com. Bice recently settled into new digs in the Talbot, and I prefer the atmosphere of the new Bice — more subdued and gracious — to the old one. If you’re tired of noisy restaurants, this is the place for you. Classic Italian dishes pepper the menu. Try the gnocchi, risotto, veal Milanese and semifreddo. ★★ (Reviewed July 15)

Rustic House, 1967 N. Halsted; (312) 929-3227; rustichousechicago.com. A contemporary American restaurant with a grand townhouse entry in Lincoln Park. Chef Jason Paskewitz’s menu is tight but offers some terrific choices. The atmosphere has a bistro feel that is romantic and very pleasing. Good place to go for date night. Try the chicken liver mousse, hand-rolled gnocchi, veal rack and pancetta-wrapped monkfish. ★★1/2 (Reviewed July 8)

Arami, 1829 W. Chicago; (312) 243-1535; aramichicago.com. The interior of Arami is the antithesis of the bustling street scene outside. The atmosphere is as gardenlike as it can be considering its urban location. One of the more interesting sushi-Japanese restaurants in the city. Arami addresses its dishes with a sense of purpose and dedication to the art of the meal. Try the toro tartar bites, spicy tako spring roll and special sashimi. ★★★ (Reviewed July 8)

Chicago Cut Steakhouse, 300 N. La Salle; (312) 329-1800; chicagocutsteakhouse.com. Casual and classy atmosphere and impeccable service. The wine list is deep at 600-plus labels. Try the shrimp cocktail, Chilean sea bass, bone-in ribeye, grilled asparagus and mixed berry cobler. ★★★ (Reviewed July 1)

Roots Homemade Pizza, 1924 W. Chicago; (773) 645-4949; rootspizza.com. A sprawling emporium that digs deep into the world of pizza and beer, featuring more than 70 beer brands from just about every Midwest brewery you can name. Bring the kids. Try the lollipop wings, pizza and lasagne. ★ (Reviewed July 1)

Piccolo Sogno, 464 N. Halsted; (312) 421-0077; piccolosognorestaurant.com. Though the name implies a “little dream,” this fine Italian restaurant thinks big and backs it up with a menu that serves as a model for fine dining Italian-style. Quality is at the forefront of the preparation of every dish. The alfresco dining area, with its view of the skyline, is one of the nicest in the city. Try the griglia mista, ravioli, tortelloni, grilled Cornish hen, halibut alla primavera and torta di ricotta. ★★★ (Reviewed June 24)

Sacco Bruno, 2151 W. Armitage; (773) 278-8028; saccobruno.com. Modern, pristine, spanking-new Italian deli featuring a wide range of sub sandwiches and “grinder” subs (oven toasted). You also can create your own sandwich by choosing from a variety of meats, cheeses and toppings. Pizza by the slice and a kids menu, too. The service and ordering process need some work. Try the eggplant Parmesan grinder, Reuben Sammy grinder and (when available) Mamma’s meatball grinder. 1/2★ (Reviewed June 24)

Moe’s Cantina, 155 W. Kinzie; (312) 245-2000; moescantina.com. Moe’s Cantina is OK if you’re looking for a bar in which to get a bite or watch TV. The food is quasi- (but not crazy) Mexican in scope with just about every dish you would expect to find in a Mexican restaurant. Pricey specialty cocktails abound. The cavernous space makes for a robust noise level. Try the skewers (shrimp, wild boar), Mexican sliders, guacamole, and chip and salsas. ★ (Reviewed June 17)

Bite Cafe, 1039 N. Western; (773) 395-2483; bitecafechicago.com. Bite Cafe is the Empty Bottle’s culinary offshoot, which it says features “creative, healthy and inexpensive contemporary American everyday fare,” a portion of it vegetarian. Late-night fare includes burger and fries, meatball sandwich and poutine. Try the farro salad, fried chicken leg sandwich, bucatini pasta and cream cheese pound cake. ★★ (Reviewed June 17)

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