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Recently reviewed restaurants by dining critic Pat Bruno. (Star ratings: ★★★★ Extraordinary; ★★★ Excellent; ★★ Very Good; ★ Good; Zero stars: Poor)

Paris Club, 59 W. Hubbard; (312) 595-0800; parisclubchicago.com. The menu is boring (some French dishes, some faux French) and the atmosphere is laid-back. Yet some of the food worked for me. Try the smoked whitefish, paper bag snapper, king salmon, “le hamburger” and pomme puree. ★1/2 (Reviewed April 8)

Dino’s Morgan Inn, 954 W. Fulton Market; (312) 226-5300. Casual, comfortable, no-frills diner in the middle of the meatpacking district. A great place to take the kids for breakfast. Try the soup of the day, enchilada casserole (when available), pancakes, pastrami Reuben (when available) and smoked salmon sandwich. ★1/2 (Reviewed April 8)

Maude’s Liquor Bar, 840 W. Randolph; (312) 243-9712; maudesliquorbar.com. The culinary platform is small plates. “Traditional French” and “Almost French” food — meaning mussels, frites, escargots, cassoulet and chicken — is served in an intimate and charming atmosphere reminiscent of late 19th century Paris. The “Drink” menu ranges far in wines, beers and spirits. Try the Lyonnaise salad, chicken liver mousse, blackened Brussels sprouts, mussels and creme brulee. ★★★ (Reviewed April 1)

Mel Markon’s Bia for Mia, 1147 W. Grand; (312) 226-0312. Mel Markon is back in the culinary game with what he calls an “Italian Fun Pub,” and the name suits the menu options to a T. Good restaurant for a family outing. Try the “fun pub sushi,” cabbage soup, pizza, burgers, grilled calamari and affogato. ★1/2 (Reviewed April 1)

Hubbard Inn, 110 W. Hubbard; (312) 222-1331; hubbardinn.com. Eclectic fare — labeled as “contemporary American,” “European continental” and “international fusion, tapas and bar food” — served in a multilevel space that has an equally eclectic atmosphere. The small plates are portioned more generously than the small plates at other places. Try the chorizo brandade, lobster club sandwich, braised short ribs and Moroccan vegetable plate. ★★ (Reviewed March 25)

Cuzzin’s Italian Comfort Food, 8600 W. 159th St., Orland Park; (708) 226-8100; 1881 Oakton, Des Plaines; (847) 795-0009; cuzzinscafe.com. It’s all about the finely tuned and delectably delicious rustic Italian “comfort food” at these Italian cafes. Bring the family and live it up. Try the eggplant Parmigiana, giambotta, neckbones with pasta, pepper and egg sandwich and cannoli. ★★1/2 (Reviewed March 25)

Mastro’s Steakhouse, 520 N. Dearborn; (312) 521-5100; mastrosrestaurants.com. A post-recession posh steakhouse that also has seafood on the menu. The mood is subdued, the lights are low. There is a Las Vegas-like piano bar and lounge on the first floor. The wine list is steep in selection and price. Try the Caesar salad, petite filet, New York strip and butter cake. ★★1/2 (Reviewed March 18)

Taco Joint, 1969 N. Halsted; (312) 951-2457; tacojoint.com. Truly a nice taco joint with all the bells and whistles (including a broad selection of tequilas) you could ask for. There is a definite cantina ambience, from the bar in front on through the dining room at the back. Try the tacos (barbacoa, tinga, al pastor), tortas (papas con chorizo) and guacamole. ★★1/2 (Reviewed March 18)

Bistronomic, 840 N. Wabash; (312) 944-8400; bistronomic.net. Bistro classics with an added flair or two of contemporary American in an atmosphere that is comfortable, romantic and enjoyable. Indulgently delicious cuisine fashioned by one of Chicago’s most underrated chefs, Martial Noguier. The mostly French wine list is quite expansive. Try the country pate, oxtail ravioli, seared scallops, braised lamb shoulder and baked Alaska. ★★★ (Reviewed March 11)

The Butcher & Larder, 1026 N. Milwaukee; (773) 687-8280; thebutcherandlarder.com. A butcher shop that also serves “sandwiches of the day,” usually one hot and one cold. The choices on a recent visit were a jumbo chili dog and a stacked arrangement of coppa meat, cheese, roasted bell peppers and microgreens. Ratings: ★★★ for meats, ★ for sandwiches. (Reviewed March 11)

33 Club, 1419 N. Wells; (312) 664-1419; 33clubchicago.com. Contemporary American food served in a clubby atmosphere of dark wood, tablecloths and table candles, with a vibrant bar scene, as well. Not only is 33 in the restaurant’s name, it also seems to be the average age of the clientele. Try the mussels, pork pot stickers, whitefish, flat iron steak and red velvet cake. ★★ (Reviewed March 4)

Owen and Engine, 2700 N. Western; (773) 235-2930; owenandengine.com . The food can be defined in two words: Irish-English. The atmosphere in two more: upscale pub. Also available is a pleasing selection of American craft beers and bottled beers from the United Kingdom and beyond. Try the roasted marrow bones, fish and chips, bangers and mash and chocolate banofee. ★★ (Reviewed March 4)

C-House, Affinia Chicago hotel, 166 E. Superior; (312) 523-0923; c-houserestaurant.com. A casual yet stylishly modern eatery that floats outside the box of most hotel restaurants in that it is small, warm, comfortable and approachable. Chef Nicole Pederson is running the kitchen now, and she’s doing a bang-up job. The menu is not as seafood-centric as when C-House opened almost three years ago. Try the 1, 2, 3 lunch special, smoked trout terrine, ravioli and grouper. ★★ (Reviewed Feb. 25)

Niu Japanese Fusion Lounge, 332 E. Illinois; (312) 527-2888; niusushi.com. Fusion/classic Asian fare such as kung pao, teriyaki and noodle dishes mix it up with a full complement of sushi creations — rolls, maki, nigiri/sashimi. There’s no shortage of sake, saketinis and Japanese beer. The lighting in the restaurant is way too low for comfort. Try the beef tataki, kung pao shrimp, chicken teriyaki and speciality rolls. ★1/2 (Reviewed Feb. 25)

Leopold, 1450 W. Chicago; (312) 348-1028; leopoldchicago.com. The short menu makes an attempt at a version of Belgian cuisine with a nod toward a Belgian pub atmosphere. Mostly, the menu is a mishmash of dishes. The beers offered include brands from Norway, Belgium, Austria and beyond. Cozy atmosphere. Try the moules and frites, diver scallops, cassoulet and Belgian waffle. ★1/2 (Reviewed Feb. 18)

Salatino’s, 626 S. Racine; (312) 226-9300; salatinoschicago.com. This is Old World Italian food, and the classic dishes and red sauce just keep coming. The all-Italian wine list captures just the right number of reds and whites to complement any dish. Try the baked clams, ravioli, braciole with cavatelli and eggplant Parmigiano. ★★1/2 (Reviewed Feb. 11)

Dough Boys, 626 S. Racine; (312) 243-9799; doughboyschicago.com. A small space appended to Salatino’s, where pizza is the focus of the menu. There also are few salads and a bunch of sandwiches. Try the thin-crust pizza, stuffed pizza, meatball sandwich and tuna sandwich. ★1/2 (Reviewed Feb. 11)

La Taberna Tapas, 1301 S. Halsted; (312) 243-9980; latabernatapas.com. An oasis of tranquility and civility, and a sharp addition to the dining scene in the South Loop and for lovers of tapas. I would go back to La Taberna if only to have the paella again, which was wonderfully delicious. I sampled several tapas and most of them had the right stuff. Try the paella, chicken croquettes, empanadas, caido gallego and flan. ★★1/2 (Reviewed Feb. 4)

Grahamwich, 615 N. State; (312) 624-9188; grahamwich.com. The line can move slowly and it’s cash only for payment, but Graham Elliot is doing a bang-up job with his sandwiches, of which there are eight on the menu. There also are housemade snacks (like chips and popcorn), plus soft-serve ice cream and sodas. Try the turkey confit, banh mi and pastrami Reuben sandwiches, and the chips and popcorn snacks. ★1/2 (Reviewed Feb. 4)

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