Restaurant of the year

1400 W. Randolph, (312) 850-0303. In my original review (Aug. 11) I said, "I would include one sixtyblue in any Top 10 restaurant list I would put together for Chicago." In the city proper, this restaurant stands tall, but my naming it restaurant of the year was not a slam-dunk (two others restaurants were in contention).

I did a lot of pondering and drawing up of lists to arrive at my decision. Also, I made a recent return visit to one sixtyblue just to be sure. The sum of all that is this: Quality and creativity abound in a menu that blends French and American contemporary (with a touch of Mediterranean, too) in a manner that is both tasteful and quite tasty.

Executive chef Martial Noguier stokes his food with flavor the way Gauguin stroked his canvas with color. Enhancements and nuances pervade each dish, yet Noguier is not a seeker of extremes, so every ingredient finds its proper place, sort of like completing a jigsaw puzzle.

Tables are generously spaced, and the decor is soothing. Service is astute and knowledgeable (Noguier works the room a lot, which keeps everybody on his toes). Reasonable prices vis-a-vis quality, a fine wine list, and one of the best cheese services around. It all adds up the way I see it to a restaurant worthy of your attention.

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In addition to one sixtyblue, here are the other restaurants, selected from those reviewed in 2006, that were exceptional. Listed in alphabetical order.)

You can read the full review of each restaurant online on the main dining page. Click on "Restaurant Reviews" and type in the name of the restaurant.

339 N. Dearborn, (312) 755-9463. An interesting conglomerate of wine shop, wine bar and restaurant. Chef John Caputo has brought the food at Bin 36 up to the level of the wine selection (which is amazing), so what was once a bit of a mess is now a marvel of pleasure. The menu is a paradigm of contemporary American, with standouts like the smoked fish platter, fresh oysters, roasted cod, pork loin with polenta cake. Each menu listing suggests wine pairing and flights, so relax and act like a true oenophile.

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2032 W. Roscoe, (773) 327-4860. A boatload of sushi restaurants opened in 2006, but this one is heads and tails above the rest. There is talent at Kaze Sushi that goes beyond the ordinary, and the results are impressive. Talent is what the three chefs of the Chan clan -- Hari, Kaze and Macku -- are all about. Hand roll, makimono, nigiri, the menu of sushi creations is complete. Cooked creations are no less elaborate or delicious (the scallop salad or the battered black cod, for example). Ravishing at first sight, the presentations are elaborate, and the attention to detail is exquisite. Also, the joy of knowing that the offerings are not static (Kaze Sushi works from a seasonal menu) generates a tingle of anticipation that flows right into the atmosphere, which is plush and evokes a zen-like aura.

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10352 S. Western, Beverly, (773) 445-5632. Unless you knew there was a really good restaurant lurking behind the simple facade of canopy and large window, you just might drive on by. Don't. Koda is one of the best restaurants in this neck of the woods. The fare is classic bistro with a bit of contemporary American thrown in for good pleasure. Chef Aaron Browning has a culinary vitae that covers everything from haute to hot (Everest, Brasserie Jo, Le Vichyssoise), so when you get a taste of what he has to offer--- French onion soup, tarte flambee, bone-in pork chop --you know you are in good hands. The atmosphere has no frills, but all is pleasant and comfortable. Service is now where it should be for a restaurant of this caliber. Interesting but not extensive wine list.

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1132 W. Grand, (312) 421-5547. The chef at May Street Market is Alex Cheswick (native of Hinsdale, worked at Le Francais and Tru), and Cheswick is very much in touch with his culinary center. Beautiful presentations and designer tableware aside, his dishes that are about flavors that are clear, ingredients that are understandable, and enjoyment that is fun to be in on. It helps, too, that the prices are not killers. A pleasant bar and lounge and a well-thought-out wine list, at prices that are not going to pop your cork, add even more appeal.

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64 Green Bay, Winnetka, (847) 441-3100. The Michael in question is chef/owner Michael Lachowicz. Solidly fine cooking triumphs here from start to finish. This is cuisine that is real instead of surreal and allows for an enjoyable, often unforgettable, dining experience in an atmosphere that is fine yet not fussy (read: low noise level, comfortable seating and spacing of tables, though the banquettes are the best seats in the house). While some dishes are complex, nothing is overwrought. A classic pate, salad Lyonnaise, roast breast of duck, grilled escolar, and the fabled fallen chocolate souffle, are above reproach.

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601 N. Milwaukee , Wheeling, (847) 777-6590. RickTramonto of Tru fame takes us on a culinary tour of Italy, leaving hardly any region unturned, at this grand ristorante in the brand-new Westin Hotel. The menu is a minestrone (which is excellent, by the way) of rustic Italian mingling with out-and-out classics (arancini, chicken Parmesan, spaghetti and meatballs, cavatelli, gnocchi, ravioli, ossobuco, pizza ... there's more here to enjoy than you can shake a stick of pepperoni at). Terrific wine list with prices you can deal with. The service staff here were obviously trained to the teeth. One big room with plenty of room to roam and be comfortable. Sit at the counter if you like to watch the action in the wide-open kitchen.

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626 N. State, (312) 698-5000. The full name of this restaurant goes like this: Quartino. Ristorante. Pizzeria. Wine Bar. Quartino is more of a trattoria than a ristorante, so don't expect a fine-dining, white tablecloth, tuxedoed waitstaff restaurant. Quartino (the name signifies a wine pour) is casual, boisterous and fun. Even more enjoyable is the food. Chef/partner John Coletta has gone all out and fashioned a menu of Italian dishes that delight and at times dazzle (I can highly recommend the selection of housemade salumi, or cured meats, especially the duck prosciutto). Add to this the reasonable prices of not only the food but the wines, and you understand why this restaurant is full just about every night of the week.

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2119 N. Clark, (773) 549-0038. The basic menu is a marvel of classic Italian dishes. The maestro behind all of this fine Italian food is chef Riccardo Michi (he was executive chef at Bice for three years and is related to Bice Ristorante founder Roberto Ruggeri). His extensive kitchen experience shows up and down the menu, from a fabulous pasta e fagioli to mussels Livornese to trofie (pasta) with pesto sauce to peach sorbet. Despite the high noise level when the place is full, the atmosphere is as pleasing as the food (read: very low-key Italian). I would like to see a broader wine list, particularly more wines from the Piedmont region. Service is excellent, and the enjoyment factor is la dolce vita.

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3868 N. Lincoln, (773) 327-3868. There are some restaurants where there is so much raw energy that you get all jittery. And there are restaurants like Sola, where you can sit back, relax, get into the moment. Everything is smooth and the service is at your side but not in your face. Tables are nicely spaced, so you can chat without shouting, and you also can muse and connect with your food. Expect three dominant influences in the fare here: Asian, Hawaiian and American. Brandade, onion tart, Asian pear salad, braised short ribs, for example. Prices are fair; the wine list is not extensive but serves the menu well. The creative renditions of chef and co-owner Carol Wallack eat as delicious as they look.

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