Without question, Libertyville is a restaurant town. Milwaukee Avenue, its main drag, is endowed with both neighborhood haunts and destination restaurants, some a cross between the two.

545 North Bar & Grill, a recent discovery on our part, is nearing its third anniversary and provides a sophisticated setting for the eclectic fare prepared by chef Patrick Joyce. Locals, however, already have found the place, so reservations during peak hours are advised.

545 North seats about 50, plus dozens more in a rear patio. Its wooden bar is well stocked with beer, wine and spirits and overhung by two large flatscreen TVs. Contemporary fixtures illuminate the rectangular storefront space with its hardwood flooring and exposed-brick walls.

Popular small-plate menu items are good accompanied by a drink or as an appetizer. Among them are tuna tartare molded with avocado, scallions and spiced mayonnaise and served with cucumbers and fried lotus chips; beef tenderloin, skewered, grilled and accompanied by pommes frites and blue cheese, and homemade hummus, pita wedges and Greek salad.

Our dinner began with still-warm, crusty house rolls and a shared a la carte salad, one of six available. The 545 Salad starred mesclun dressed in lemon-pepper vinaigrette and came plated with grilled asparagus, roasted red peppers, kalamata olives and feta cheese.

The daily specials (rainbow trout and skirt steak when we visited) are worth checking out, though the main menu itself is rife with appealing possibilities, such as bacon-wrapped scallops with butternut squash and French beans, and 8- or 12-ounce beef filets in a peppercorn demi-glace.

Arctic char, a plentiful fish related to salmon and trout, arrived nicely grilled and resting atop sauteed spinach and mushrooms in a light lemon-herb butter sauce. Very tasty. Very generous portion.

Unfortunately, our bustling young waiter only got it half right when placing entree orders with the kitchen, so a wait ensued while the pork tenderloin he brought was replaced by the requested braised short rib. And the melt-in-your-mouth meat was worth the wait. It couldn't have been more tender. Also enjoyable were the accompanying roasted sweet potato wedges, green peas and cippolini onions.

After-dinner temptations included a handful of desserts, from chocolate brownie sundaes to apple fritters with ice cream. Chocolate mousse pie made a fine, if not sensational, dessert.

Thomas Witom is a local freelance writer.