Who among us doesn't love a good sandwich? In fact, the world would have to close down lunch if it weren't for sandwiches. And that's what El Mariel in West Town is mostly about -- sandwiches.
(Scott Stewart/Sun-Times)
null
Cuisine:
Parking: No
Serving:
The menu, which is printed on what amounts to a postcard, lists eight sandwiches and just about as many side dishes (which outnumber the restaurant's five tables). The food has a Cuban influence, so the best place to start was with the "sandwich Cubano."
I give this Cubano high marks; good bread that had been pressed and toasted just enough to melt the Swiss cheese that flowed into the thin slices of pork. And under the pork was a bountiful amount of sliced ham. Two thin pickles stretched the length of the bread and, of course, there was some tangy yellow mustard to make it authentic (mustard, yes; mayonnaise, never).
As much as I liked the Cubano, I thought the pan con lechon pork sandwich was equally good. Not as stacked as the Cubano, this sandwich used the same good bread, which was layered with shaved pork that was not only tender but uniquely flavorful, the added flavor coming from the onions that were cooked soft and sort of melt into the pork. Sandwiches come with a good amount of crispy homemade chips, but if you feel like splurging $1.95, order the papas fritas and you will get a tasty tangle of fries that are a bit on the softer side and flavorful instead of the boring ho-hum crispy fries that seem to prevail these days.
Check out the handwritten sign taped to the front of the deli case for a daily special (or two). El Mariel seems to be diving into fish specials more and more. One day, I caught fileto di pescado empanisado, ensalada di papa -- a fillet of cod with potato salad. The generous fillet was breaded and fried to a toasty brown on the outside yet was moist underneath (slices of fresh lime are on the side if you need them). I am not saying this is the best cod I have ever had, but with the huge portion of delicious homemade potato salad that came with it, it was a steal at $6.99.
No alcohol is served, so grab a Sidral Mundet ("Mexico's original apple soda") from the cooler; it goes with just about anything.
E-mail brunoeats@aol.com
