Italian restaurant off to the races in Hodgkins
Hodgkins, a tiny Cook County village west of Chicago, isn't widely known as a restaurant town. But the opening last December of Salerno-Pincente Ristorante has given the area a new drawing card -- two, in fact, when you count the Trackside, a sports bar under the same roof and Illinois' newest off-track betting (OTB) operation.
The restaurant, started by Andrew Salerno and Frank Pincente, has familial ties to Salerno's Restaurant & Pizzeria, a long-time Berwyn fixture. A separate entrance admits customers to the sprawling Trackside, whose most prominent feature is an array of some 60 high-definition televisions tuned to simulcasts of events at racetracks around the country. One can wager on a favorite horse, enjoy a libation and order lunch or dinner.
Salerno-Pincente Ristorante's moderately priced menu, served at both the restaurant and the OTB, promises a taste of Italy. It delivers traditional dishes such as eggplant parmigiana, spaghetti carbonara, chicken cacciatore, veal marsala and sauteed mussels with garlic, olive oil and tomato sauce over linguini. Pizza, from 8-inch appetizer pies to extra-large 16-inchers, are available to suit the size and appetite of any group.
Most entrees are in the mid- to upper teens in price and come with soup or salad and a side of pasta. The place also has a diverse wine list with many affordable labels.
The main Tuscan-inspired 170-seat dining room is a comfortable, unpretentious space. Tea candles bounce a soft light off polished wood tables. However, along one wall a brightly lit freezer case emits an unpleasant glare, even if the gelato it holds is a welcome dessert treat. And it's a safe bet that with the carpetless floors, the decibel level rises on crowded weekends.
A smaller bar than at Trackside serves restaurant patrons; it, too, has a handful of TV screens connected to horse races, including Arlington Park.
Calamari ($11.95 and sharable), expertly grilled and consumed with a squeeze of lemon, make a tasty appetizer. Among other classic starters are bruschetta, baked clams, shrimp de jonghe and arancini.
The only "problem" with the tortellini della casa -- shaped pasta with prosciutto, mushrooms and peas in a cream sauce -- was easy to resolve. The entree was just too much for one sitting, so our server was happy to pack the leftovers.
A tablemate's cod filet ($17.95) was another sure winner. Baccala della casa featured cod sauteed in a delicate white wine sauce with onions, mushrooms, green peppers and roasted potatoes.
The kitchen also turns out gnocchi, veal saltimbocca, grilled salmon and such standards as filet mignon and barbecue ribs.
And no matter what kind of pasta you hanker for, you'll probably find it, from mostaccioli to rotini, along with a suitable sauce, of which there are 10 from which to choose, including bolognese, puttanesca, aglio olio and fettuccine alfredo.
No surprises in the dessert cart. It's occupied by cannoli, tiramisu and something described as a chocolate suicide cake. We can still taste the rich, creamy pistachio and chocolate gelato.
The service lacked polish. Our waiter was attentive but ill-informed about the day's specials. Later, he started to bring salad to the table before the appetizer.
Thomas Witom is a local free-lance writer.